Tuesday, 21 Sep. Akerreta to Pamplona, 10 miles

So nice to have a shorter walk. Had a croissant this am along with fresh-squeezed OJ in that gorgeous old house and I was off. Walked almost all the way alone, watching the animals, tiny towns, and listening to my book. I did talk a bit with a woman from Valencia but language was limited, though we covered a few basics with my Spanish. She was walking with her father-in-law and it was a bless her situation. I’d seen the guy talking to a rock, well, maybe to himself, but looked like to a rock. He talked a LOT. She’d walk ahead, keeping an eye back to make sure he was alright, then keep walking. Clearly, she had a strategy. She was lovely, so happy to have a week away with the mother-in-law watching her two kids. 

I arrived in Pamplona, crossing a 12th century bridge, updated in the 14th, then restored in the 1960’s, I think. The Magdalena  Bridge. It’s pretty much all about the church here. I didn’t realize Pamplona is another medieval town. Then I was walking between enormous fortified walls as the bells started ringing for 12N. So amazing that I’m here, I was just grinning.

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Then I found the tourist office, got my stamp – hadn’t meant to, but walked right by it. Oh right, have to do that. Then realized I had to walk all the way through town (about 7 minutes) and my feet decided they’d had enough. But – oh – when you do a walking tour, when you get where you’re going, you have to walk to see what you came to see. That was a bit dismaying. Found my hotel and at first a little disappointed because it’s like a Spanish Hilton, then decided that was REALLY nice. Quiet. Can’t hear the nice old Irishman snoring all night next door. I’m going to sleep tonight 🙂

Took a shower, picked through everything I could and sent a box home to lighten my bag. I seem to always be on the third floor of a walk up hotel. Very proud of myself between post office and restaurant – made it work with my oh-so-limited Spanish. Came back, took a shower and then made myself go out armed with the ripped out sheets from my great medieval history book. 

First, I had to eat. It was about 3:30 and I found a restaurant with a lot of people in it, they let me sit though getting close to closing lunch time. Totally great lunch. I’m beginning to see why people like Spanish food, but it sure is hit or miss for where you go. Also – NOONE eats alone here. I’m such an oddity. 

I started with the Iglesias de San Ignacio, “unremarkable 17th century church.” Well, even unremarkable church’s are pretty incredible. But I loved the background story: “The church marks the site where a young night named Ignacio de Loyola was wounded in the defense of Pamplona on May 20, 1521. While recovering, the wounded knight asked for novels of chivalry to read. Instead, his friends brought him the Bible and some saints’ lives. Ignacio decided to become a soldier of Christ and went on to found the Jesuit Order.” (The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago) I loved that.  

Then to the Cathedral, incredible and they had music playing in the background and this time people really were respectful of all the “silencio” signs. That and Ignacio were my sitting places today. The photo below is just one chapel – Santa Caterina.

Now – got a text from my Irish friends that I missed today that they’re going out at 8. That seems very late to me, but it’s 7 minutes away so going to go, have some cider to counteract the extremely thick chocolate I had at a cafe and then back to sleep. Almost 15 more miles tomorrow. Want to get going early, serves me better. Street and cafe scene below.