Last night I got in to the hotel that had a restaurant as well and I was starving, so had a big lunch around 4 – just in time before they change to sandwiches. The salad of tomatoes was giant and incredible – from their garden. I would love this to be a regular thing, two days now had an amazing lunch and then didn’t need anything else after.
A fellow American, Rick – dentist from Kerrville – sat down near the end of my lunch and had a beer. It became a musical chairs table for a lot of the people we knew. I left to get a shower and make myself look at the churches and town, happily tiny, so little more walking. Found Fiona and we sat back down at the table with Murv (turns out it’s Merv as in Mervyn, not Murph as in Murphy) and others. Then we were there until 9:00 just chatting with people walking up and down the street. Well, I was just chatting, everyone else was having beer and wine with their chat. Don’t know HOW they walk the next day.
Today, met Fiona and Merv at breakfast and off we went. Beautiful full moon over the church on our way out of town.
Then 2 blocks later hit the bridge that the queen of Navarre built for the town in the 11th c. Until then there were ferries that helped/swindled the pilgrims as they tried to cross the Arga River.
And off to Estella. The tiny town with the GIANT churches. It’s a truly wonderful little town, “one of the most charming on the Camino.”
I didn’t take too many photos during the walk. Talking with Fiona and Merv all the way, I actually was much more distracted than usual. Realized when I’m listening to my book, I’m paying attention to it, but also watching everything around me and noticing interesting buildings, people, etc.
I actually was distracted enough that I left my poles in two places and Merv saved me. Actually, that was how we’d met the first day when I was so focused on a giant slug that I walked off after my photo and they called me and gave my poles. Today, we came across this guy who had an olive grove and a fruit stand. For a donation you could get something and I was really hungry. He had cold perfect fresh cut melon, so so good. The whole scene was great. I thought I got it on video, but nope. So Fiona and I walked off while Merv was chatting with another Irish woman. Engrossed in Fiona’s stories of teaching, I didn’t even realized I’d left my poles for ages. Then we were going up a slope and I suddenly realized. Oh, good grief, cursed, turned and there was Merv grinning with my poles and they were laughing, saying they wondered how long it would take me. Then I did it AGAIN. This time remembered quickly, but again Merv behind us had the poles. Oy. So – now – when I stop, I’m tucking them into a loop on my bag.
Here’s Fiona on a bridge where a story was written by a pilgrim in the 12c. Unfortunately, I don’t have the exact wording, lost the page – but again from The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago. A pilgrim and his friend saw bandits who had skinned the horses of pilgrims who’d gone by – only if they died. The bandits told the pilgrim and his friend that the water was safe and they let their horses drink. Within a short distance, both horses died and the bandits skinned them and kept the money. Rough life being a pilgrim. I guess harder on the horses…
Finally, walked into Estella. Walked by the Church of the Holy Sepulcre, incredible stone work, but doors were closed. A lot of churches if closed, open half an hour before mass. All we could think was that we would have to walk BACK if we wanted to see it. The last mile always feels forever.
My foot was getting very cranky from the hot spot and I was so hot, 82 when we walked into town. But – showered, put on flip flops and off I went. I was so hungry and very anticipatory for another great late lunch, but I got turned around and missed the timing, too late. Had a couple of little sandwiches and then went to explore more giant churches.
This one is the most famous, San Pedro de la Rua, 12th to 13th century. There’s a beautiful cloister with two of the original walls and the church felt really calm and nice. I love it when there’s music playing. Took a video this time and you can kind of hear the music. I then thought there must be another church. It looked so big from below. But no, giant safe fortress place with fairly small church inside.
Beautiful, right? Last church is 12c Church of San Miguel, right next to my hotel. I was so glad to get back close. Took a couple of Mary photos, couldn’t resist the one from Ecuador. Looked her up, but only found Spanish so got a gist, but will look again.
Reb's Walks! 
You are right Rebecca, these churches and their doors are exquisite architecture!
Xo,
Jill
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