Walked almost all of today alone with occasional encounters. I couldn’t sleep from 3:45 on, so got off to an early start at 7:15. Somehow being tired and putting stuff together, feet care, all of it just ends up taking time. But – I also wouldn’t want to leave earlier than that. It’s so dark!
I found 2 peregrinos pretty quickly and walked behind, think they were German, but their pace was a lot slower than mine. Then another guy passed them and I fell in behind him. He seemed very certain of the way and since it was dark and I was happy to not be staring at my phone, I followed him. I’m ok on my own if I can see the signs, but it took a while before it got light and then it was beautiful.
Hours later, somehow we had leapfrogged each other and he caught up with me. We started talking and he had left from the main start in France, 700 km from where I started at the bottom of France. He had until Oct 15 and then would go back home from wherever he was. It truly wasn’t about the destination for him, it was the journey. He and I were chatting the usual, where are you from, etc. and I mentioned the fact that no one asks “why are you doing this?” He said, yes, it’s so private and individual that people do just seem to understand that’s not generally asked, but he was happy to tell me about his journey.
He was bored in his job, his children were finishing high school, he and his wife needed to think about what they were going to do to find new things, and he was feeling pretty lost. He talked to his parents, who had done the Camino a few years before, and they told him he needed to go do it and to do it alone. COVID and his son’s graduation held him up and then he left. He said it’s been everything for him, he has had so many creative ideas about work, thoughts about family and what he wants to do. He wants to come back and do it with his wife. He was just beaming. It was lovely.
I was back to walking by myself and came into the first small town a third of the way. I was looking for food since I hadn’t eaten anything but a few almonds (bought at DIA) and found the little town’s giant church, Iglesia de La Asunción. I was lucky because it was open and they had music playing. I stayed for 15 minutes. It was quiet, I was earlier than most and though the music in the video doesn’t sound great, in person, it was wonderful. The book was right; “Wait for the church to open or hunt up a key, because La Asunción contains one of the most stunning Baroque retablos in all of Spain. Constructed over 2 earlier temples in 1583-1625.” He then gives a full page description of how to look at the church’s offerings and it really is incredible.
What he doesn’t mention is the sacristy’s visuals, something I haven’t seen before. What looks like a coffin with Jesus off the cross. An English guy sitting in our group later said he thought it was just bizarre, “wasn’t he supposed to be risen then?”
Yep, something different.
On a more cheerful note, as I was walking I passed this, the translation: “happiness is contagious.”
At this same spot, I was passing by quite an extensive park on the other side of the path. Oh – bathroom! But no. I don’t know if it’s Spain or COVID, but there are no public restrooms that I’ve found. Cafe’s come along pretty frequently and that helps. However, sometimes it’s just a little thing, but definitely would like a bathroom. And, of course, once you think of it, that’s an issue and that’s all you can think about. How can there be a park this big and no restrooms? I see what I think might be a potential building, so head that way. An older gentlemen starts talking – no, peregrino, go that way – much prettier, near the lake. His Spanish was so pretty, kind of rolling and I got most of it. Ok, I’ll do that, but is there a bathroom. Yes, yes, but go that way, it’s prettier. Ok, thank you. And it was pretty – here’s the lake:
But the bathroom? He met me at the end of my path and his, which was lower, and then he showed me, giving me directions again, up the hill, on the left, don’t go to the right – that’s the men’s and yuck (don’t remember the exact word), ok, well, I’ll go that way. But wait! you have to see the fish!
Huh, guess they get fed here a lot, right? Yes, very proudly. Then he led me to the public bathroom, bless his heart.
Then, I’m walking along, enjoying my breathing practice and the morning and another guy comes along, I want to practice my English, I often ask peregrinos if I can walk alongside and talk. Ok, I’ll practice my Spanish. He’d been to NY, Boston, and Buffalo. Buffalo? Less expensive and he could stay in motels. Then as he was clearly ok walking with me for as long as it took to the next town, I just said I’m going to walk alone now and off he went. Very freeing this being able to say what you’re going to do!
And after nearly 18 miles, walked into the last town, Najera, and saw this sign:
Another great day!
Reb's Walks! 