Here’s morning views of the Cathedral on my way out of Astorga:
Then right after the cathedral, I saw this sign and a memorial re the peninsular war with Napoleon.
I’ve read a ton of books based during this time and realized that I rarely see anything about it when I’ve been in London. Granted, maybe I wasn’t looking, but to see these notes brings back how rough that war was. War is always awful, but for some reason, this one isn’t too present in current language except everyone knows aboutBattle of Trafalgar (recognized at Trafalgar Square in London) and Waterloo which finally ended Napoleon’s reign and come back.
Then a long walk. Actually, only 12 miles, but for some reason the second half felt long. Luckily, between book, The Moth radio and Poetry Unbound podcasts, finally got my mind off how tired my legs were. I think I’ve slowed down to about 25 minute miles, whew, really flying along. I do take breaks thus part of the slow pace.
Another interesting artistic interpretation for pilgrims at a more modern church:
This town is the only town on the entire Camino named after a woman:
And an impromptu creation by passerby pilgrims, went the length of the fence:
And, then walked into Rabal del Camino.
I know it looks like yet another ancient Spanish town, but something’s different about it. It’s really small, but feels solid. The town before this was literally falling down – and was noted as so in the Wise Pilgrim, the app I’ve started using. Great details.
But Rabal feels welcoming, kind, I don’t know. Thought it was just me, but then talked with a couple of guys over lunch, both late 20’s, episcopal priests, great people. One a chaplain in the army (“I differ from others of my profession, I profoundly disagree with war and think there better be a very good reason for being there – not for oil, etc.) and the other from Houston at the cathedral downtown. They said it first, that walking into this town was different. Feels healthy and welcoming. Yep – I thought the same. AND there is a vesper service with the monks every night at 7. Definitely looking forward to it. A tiny church, only holds max 25 (that might be a little bit because of COVID).
Another sign of this cool town was this little table and the poem next to it:
Of course I had to take part, so dropped in an euro and got this poem as a random pick:
The small man builds cages for everyone he knows
While the sage, who has to duck his head when the moon is low,
Keeps dropping keys all night long
For the beautiful rowdy prisoners.
Hafiz
I did go to the vesper service, sung by a single monk (the other one was sick) and the returns were sung by the woman who sat next to me. The only villager who was there aside from the pilgrims. She told me she was born in the town and clearly knew and took part in the services. Seems like it could be lonely for the 2 monks, except they probably know everyone in town and take care of counseling, helping, and whatever else the community might need. Both of them had great voices!
It was nice, sung in Latin, so couldn’t understand anything, though there was a Spanish translation running parallel in the program. Just knowing that services had been held there since the 1100’s is amazing. It was really small, there were probably maybe 20 max people and that basically filled the space with COVID space between people. There were patches everywhere as part of ongoing renovation, but I did look a bit gingerly at the roof.
Then dinner with 8 of us here at our hotel, Refugio. Should be fun, then the three amigos go on farther than me tomorrow, sad to see them go. Maybe I can get them to come up to Boulder to visit. Sue’s with me at least one more night, maybe a couple more, not sure about Bev. Things do shift and turn on this journey.
Reb's Walks! 