The country has changed again, heading into mountains tomorrow. I don’t know why everyone makes such a big deal about the Pyrenees on the first day, then again, I was straight from CO. It was completely beautiful and also very doable. These next mountains look steeper and with more challenging trails. But maybe not!
The photo below is from a mural on the outside of a church outside Ponferrada, I’ve never seen the gospels pictured as animals. Attracting pagan practioners? Particular traits to all but Matthew?
And this bit of a video is from where I took 10 minutes to eat a banana and sit with the brook and birds.
I passed the most complete castle on the Camino in Ponferrada, built by the Knights Templar, but it wasn’t open and I had a long day so couldn’t wait.
There’s also a castle here in Villafranca, but it’s not open to the public, but still cool!
This town is wonderful, medieval falling apart mixed with updated, mixed with renovated and some new. The main plaza reflects this – churches in the background, old cobbled streets, restaurant/residence that looks good in the front, but has been sprayed heavily with the yellow insulation I’ve noted before that both keeps things warm and probably holds together ancient walls.
This doorway is from a the Iglesia de Santiago – the church for pilgrims. We weren’t allowed to take photos of the inside, very bare, felt so old and not added/changed except to keep it standing over the centuries. The north portal, shown here, is from 1186 and is called the Puerta del Perdon. “According to tradition pilgrims too sick to go on could enter the church through this door, take communion, and receive pardon for their sins, a privilege confirmed by the 15th c Popes Urban II and Calixto III (great names). Then they could return home and not go all the way to Santiago. Evidently a French pilgrim in 1965 fell very sick and requested the door be opened. He prayed, healed and returned home contentedly. I’m not taking that option – plus I’m not sick!
This church, Iglesia de San Francisco was huge – you can see the people in front to get a sense of scale. It wasn’t open, sadly, I’d have loved to see inside. The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: “Tradition holds that San Francisco (Saint Frances of Assisi) himself founded this church in 1214 on his pilgrimage to Compostela (Santiago).” There are a few pieces of the church from the 13th c, but most is now a 15th c Gothic church. The description of it sounds incredible, but I’m not meant to see it.
Four of the friends I’ve been with for the last two weeks are moving on tomorrow, doing a long hike that’s broken in to two days for Sue and me. We used the same travel agency out of England – they just happen to have an office in Boulder, of all places. Rick’s probably going to be disappointed, but his first day we only go 5.1 miles. It is supposed to be basically going straight up. Only short day of the trip. Sue and I will be thrilled!
Reb's Walks! 