Wednesday, 27.Oct. Melide to Arzúa, 8.7 miles

Had a few notes from last night. Melide was a not a destination as far as interest goes, more timely with miles and hotels, same for where we are now. In fact, there’s nothing to write about for Arzúa. There’s a church from 14c, but we couldn’t get in and my book says “the main entrance could not be more nondescript.” The other church was built in 1955. So – last night. Melide at least had a medieval square, with church, capilla, and buildings that used to be the hospice. I took a short video of the square. 

The church was 14c Franciscan, but I particularly liked the Capilla de San Roque. Now, I’ve lost the piece of paper with the description, but it was a tiny chapel to Saint Anthony. There was a kneeling knight who was also the benefactor who built the chapel and his name was … Anthony. I assume his Catholic name after the saint. So I looked up the Saint – wondering if any of the saints become saints without being martyred. He did! Wikipedia: “Noted by his contemporaries for his powerful preaching, expert knowledge of scripture, and undying love and devotion to the poor and the sick, he was one of the most quickly canonized saints in church history.” I told Rick and he said his family used to appeal to St. Anthony for lost things – yep and for fishermen and sailors. Guess he’d be Rick’s guy! The Pilgrimage book noted it for a small space where you could sit in quiet and get out of the Galician rain. Happily, the rain has held off, but it did invite quiet sitting. A treat.

Today was beautiful, quiet and sunny. We actually debated going the next 11.8 miles – to tomorrow’s hotel and taxiing back bc it is supposed to be raining tomorrow. But, happily, we decided against it. When we got to Arzúa, I realized that my mind was good with 8+ and wasn’t ready to keep going. It’s such a mindset. 

But tomorrow’s rain isn’t supposed to start until later so we’re going to do another early/dark morning hike to relish the quiet and we’ll put some food in our packs to hold us until we find an open cafe. Can take a while because the Spanish do not get up early!

Scenes from today:

The woman with the cute pink car and stand looked quite industrious and I loved the name on the sign. Didn’t get anything because I didn’t need anything, but hope she sells a lot to others 

I thought this river (everything’s a river here) crossing was amazing. They must have somehow gotten a piece of serious machinery down the trail to make this bridge, the stones were big!

This was a cool church because this was the terminus for people doing the pilgrimage for the 2 years around the 1918 Spanish flu epidemic. They weren’t allowed to go further. There was a plaque outside to those who died from COVID. First time I’ve seen this anywhere and I guess appropriate given the church’s history. It’s a more recent remodel (18c?), but the site started in the 8th c as a church. 

Final shot – getting our morning tea/hot chocolate, fresh orange juice and treat (Rick’s completely given up the impossibility of his diet here and will deal with the consequences when he gets home) with cows in the background and the building next to the Puente Ribadiso, a site for a bridge from at least 572, the current one much more updated.

Another great day! Just realized you can see me taking the photo…Notice the poles leaning up on the railing. I may have to name them, they have been the best.

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