I had another wonderful day. These days of wandering through the country are just a dream and it is so beautiful. I don’t know if I mentioned it, but arriving at both Tineo and Pola de Allande were surprises, walking, walking, turn a corner and there it is. I think it’s because of how the towns are nestled into the mountains. So started off out of Pola de Allande and first thing I see is this view with kale set up as a border.
This arrow pointed straight to the farm. Ok. And sure enough, you could go through the space between the house and barn or to the left. I went to the left, but a guy riding a bike towards me went right through their space. I’m realizing that when a mosaic shell is embedded in the side of the house that it’s both directly on the camino and that it’s also probably quite old. This was a beautiful farm, saw her on the way to collect eggs and the he was just going out on the tractor.
This is maybe one of the biggest differences from the Camino Frances. All these little towns are lived in, if the house is falling down, no, but if not – someone’s there. Last year, it seemed like a lot of the houses on the Camino might be second homes, or traditional ones that they just come back to occasionally.
And now I’m off on another truly beautiful hike.
I marveled at this. Obviously, the rocks are there to work with, but there were only 2 houses at the end of this valley! And the walls for both holding back the rock fall and to border the road were extensive and beautiful. So generations?
And I’m at the top of the pass. This was a marker for human rights and I loved the little music note next to the star.
According to the Asturias site – the area that I’m walking through until I hit Galicia – The Route to Human Rights along the Camino Primitivo of Saint James launched a pioneer program to present and promote the values of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights in schools along the Original Way of Saint James.
I also learned that the Camino de Santiago in it’s Primitive Way itinerary was declared in 2015 a “World Heritage Site” by the UNESCO. There are 30 artistic bronze plagues along the 13 stages of the Primitive Way for the Human Rights Route.
Hmmm. I’ve seen two. I’ll have to start paying attention.
Yup and it went down and down. I walked DOWN and DOWN a steep side of rocks for quite a while. My toes had a lot to say about it that night. After a long time, I saw this beautiful farm or something in the distance. I really really hoped there might be a small cafe.
Nope, but it was a beautiful farm with a tiny chapel. It used to be a hospital on the route many, many years ago. Now a farm, though not many buildings looked weather safe. Evidently there was someone in residence because there was a dog sleeping ON the trail who blended in, I almost stepped on him even though he was really big. The chapel was the Capilla de Santiago de Montefurado. So pretty inside, but I was tired and really wanted tea, so forgot to take a picture.
Then, the most wonderful surprise. I came around a corner of an ancient church a bit further on and two men were there, “want some lemonade?” Really? Yes!! It was completely delicious and they were so nice. One spoke some English and they told me about the huge tree next to the church. Teixo is the Asturian spelling. The tree is over 1,000 years old and is treasured. It was used by the Celts for their spiritual practices when they were here back then. I couldn’t really get an accurate picture because how it was hidden behind the tree.
Hiked on into the woods and then to Berducedo. I think there’s a group Albergue and at least one small hotel, but not much so I had to call a taxi and wait for about an hour to go back to Pola de Allande. That was ok with me because it gave me 2 nights in a hotel, time to go to a lavanderia and then hang things in my room to dry. Plus the hotel had a great restaurant and super nice people.
Then I got in the taxi and I thought this was going to be my last day. The paving was great, but the road was pretty crazy, like Trail Ridge Road going through Rocky Mountain National Park, but more. At one point, I clutched the door handle which caught the drivers eye. Didn’t make him slow down…
I made it back safely.
Reb's Walks! 