Today, we started the Via Francigena. 15 miles, supposed to rain, but we were set, had water, sandwiches, few snacks and rain coats. So psyched to be on another camino – called the same thing here as in Spain. Here’s some background to the VF, courtesy of the VF website.
Via Francigena, that is to say “road that originates from France”. The name included, beyond the current French territory, also the area of the the Rhine valley and the Netherlands.At that time, the traffic along the Via was growing, so that the path established itself as the main connection axis between the North and the South of Europe, along which merchants, armies and pilgrims passed through.
Between the end of the first millennium and the beginning of the second, the practice of pilgrimage acquired a growing importance. The holy places of Christianity were Jerusalem, Santiago de Compostela and Rome, and the Via Francigena represented the central junction of the great faith roads. Pilgrims coming from North travelled on the Via towards Rome and eventually along the Appian Way towards the bridges of Puglia, where they could embark for the Holy Land. Vice versa, Italian pilgrims that were headed towards Santiago, travelled on the Via towards North, to reach Luni, where they could embark for the bridges of France or they could continue towards Moncenisio and then to the Via Tolosana, that led to Spain. Pilgrimage soon became a mass phenomenon and this intensified the role of the Via Francigena, that became a determinant communication channel for the realisation of cultural unity, that characterised Europe during the Middle Ages.
It is mainly thanks to the travel journals, and in particular the notes of the illustrious pilgrim Sigeric, that we can nowadays reconstruct the ancient path of the Francigena. In 990, after being ordained as Archbishop of Canterbury by Pope John XV, the abbot went back home noting on two manuscript pages the 80 mansions where he stopped for the night. Sigeric’s journal is still considered the most authoritative source, so much so that often we talk about “Via Francigena according to Sigeric’s itinerary”, in order to define a more “philological” version of the path.
So – there’s a synopsis. We’re doing Stage 90-95 through Tuscany. We have our pilgrim’s passports, good shoes, hiker’s goo and lambs wool to assist the feet. Rick has a fanny pack with a shoulder strap and is keeping it light, actually let me carry one of his bottles of water as well as his small protein shake. You know he’s hurting when that happens. But we’re off – the little sign between Bob and Susan is what we were keeping an eye out for, plus I was tracking on AllTrails and the others were using MacsAdventure’s maps.
Right away, I darted off the path to see this very small church, so cool. Built in 1524 during a plague period and dedicated to Saint Sebastian, patron saint against the plague. I thought the mural was amazing. The others rolled their eyes, but then came back because I took so long. I was trying to talk with the woman who’d just opened the church. Oh, if only I could speak as much Italian as Spanish! Not that I know much Spanish, but I could have understood some of it for sure…
We walked from San Miniato to Gambassi Terme. In a word – gorgeous, just so beautiful. None of us could believe it. I felt so so lucky to be walking with Rick and friends we’ve known for almost as long as Rick and I have known each other – in Italy! And seeing scenery that at every turn gave a new gift. Sadly, my photos aren’t great at capturing, but I tried!
And this church – obviously not doing great, doesn’t seem to be used, but the parish dates back to the time of Sigeric and was recorded as one of his halting places.
And then more scenery:
And, finally, we arrived at Gambassi Terme. We were lucky that there were 2 water fountains on the way because it was hot and we ran out. Gambassi Terme is small, probably lovely, but all we wanted was a shower and then dinner, in a big way. Our hostess at the B&B welcomed us and said there were no restaurants in the town. But there was one pizzeria that was open. We went early. And thank goodness because we were able to sit at the bar. The place only had 4 tables and people kept coming in looking so hungry. Probably all the other people who’d hiked that day. They did get in, but it took a while. Salad, pasta carbonara and I ate every bite. Wonderful.
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