Lucky, lucky, lucky is all I can say. I fell on a rock yesterday so have a cranky knee, Bob pulled his hamstring a bit, Rick – well, more than can be written. And yet, today was just fantastic. So incredibly beautiful and on our way to San Gimignano, the reason I chose this segment of the Via Francigena. Rick said at one point, “I think it’s even more beautiful than yesterday!” Really, we couldn’t believe it.
We were supposed to do 9 miles today, but started off a little differently. We did a full circle of Gambassi Terme, ending up back in front of our hotel. Another mile. Huh. So we all stopped talking for a bit and starting paying more attention. The VF has more signs for norte than the Caminos. Probably because the first pilgrimage by Sigeric was from south to north. That’s just a guess. But we did a circle of north and south VF signs. Found the right way, then we were off!
Two of the scenes we got to see twice:
Scenery shots:
The first interesting structure we found was a convent, Santuario di Pancole – The English part of the sign: in 1668 the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared to a young deaf-mute girl called Bartolomea Ghini. She was cured and thereafter the Mother of God arranged for the provision of her poor family’s basic necessities, flour, wine and oil. Thereafter she was venerated as the Mother of Divine Providence. In 1670 the Sanctuary was built, but was destroyed by German soldier in 1944 and reconstructed in 1949. Rick said – really? There was no reason at all to bomb this place, it has no regional importance, just nuns living peacefully.
We couldn’t go in the sanctuary’s church because we very much had the wrong clothes on – so didn’t see the famous painting from the 1400’s by Pier Francesco Florentino which represents the Blessed Virgin breast feeding the Holy Child (really, it can’t be like what I’m imagining, may have to google) BUT – we could walk down to the grotto, a small cave with an elaborate set up of the nativity.
Our next interesting site was the Monastero di Bose a Cellole. The most wonderful monastery, still active (Rick looked through the door after they called for prayers and saw 4 monks and 2 visitors in the service). It is a 12th century Romanesque church, austere, quiet and wonderful. They take guests for retreat and Rick was ready to sign up.
Then we arrived in San Gimignano, had a quick rinse (it was quite hot today) and then had the best lunch – best meal – we’ve had since we arrived in Italy. Fantastic and attached to the hotel. Hotel was definitely a lovely tick up.
View of the town on approach:
Showered, took a bit of time and then started walking around San Gimignano. It’s as wonderful as I’d hoped. The others fell in love too, so fascinated by the walls, the streets, the history. The main cathedral had a whole series of murals that were remarkable. We couldn’t get the audio to download – too big a file, but we’re going to listen to it belatedly. But can’t give any info here.
Unfortunately, the museum I’d most hoped to see, archeological, is closed for updates and the famous Etruscan statues are elsewhere. But – still everything was a treat.
There were 72 towers in this town, 13 remain. Most were built as testament to wealth and importance and were not functional, but it definitely still gives the look of a feudal Tuscan town. I didn’t capture the towers well. I’ll try tomorrow morning.
It’s amazing because there are original paintings outside that they’ve preserved by removing, securing to a fiber glass support and putting right back up. Without a cover! The painting below, Virgin with Child, was painted circa 1370 and was outside in the patio below.
None of us were ready to leave, so we looked at the next walk. It’s actually supposed to be the one of the most beautiful of the entire Via Francigena, but…we’re going to miss. We decided we’d rather sleep late, go to the museum of San Gimignano and learn more about the town. Then we’ll take a taxi through the downpour that’s supposed to happen all day tomorrow – to another totally cool town and hotel. We made the decision at dinner and had dessert to celebrate! All of us were psyched, relieved and ready to rest the aches and pains. Plus Rick slammed his big toe against a lip of the bathroom, he’s beginning to wonder what in the world is going on. But he’s a trooper and in good spirits.
Reb's Walks! 