We flew Iberia to San Sebastián (Donostia is the Basque name) – short, easy flight and landed in this wonderful town. A few people had told me that this was one of their favorite towns and now I get it. We’re staying on the bay and can see the water from our room, it’s beautiful.
Yep, there’s Rick. He said that when we passed a window that he felt like he was in his pajamas. But then we realized that’s because we’re in our Vuori clothes, completely comfortable and not styling. But it was raining on and off and windy so we were happy to be comfortable, warm and dry with our rain jackets.
We realized we were too tired to stay up for an 8pm res for dinner and asked the hotel to change us to an afternoon lunch, 3pm, and they were able to get a spot at Narru. Oh my goodness, the best meal in Spain I’ve ever had. Rick and I were giddy. Belatedly, I realized I should have taken photos, a la Kaziah. But I didn’t think. Our heads were swinging every time someone came by with food for us or anyone else because it was beautiful. Such a fun lunch.
We then started exploring the Old City and going into churches. I really won’t be doing a litany of churches like I did on my first Camino, but there were some notable things.
This is the Cathedral of Good Shepherd or San Sebastián cathedral. Rick looked up the history, and here’s a note from Wikipedia: The Spanish royal family, who were vacationing in the city, were invited to the laying of the foundation stone. The events took place on September 29, 1888. The queen regent, Maria Christina, her children and the Infante Antonio, along with ministers and other officials, attended the solemn mass that the diocesan bishop D. Mariano Miguel Gómez held in the provisional parish church of the Sacred Heart. Following the ceremony, the royal entourage moved to the site of the new church and there proceeded to lay the foundation stone, which covered a lead box in which were enclosed pictures of the Pope and the royal family, various coins of the time and copies of the Gazette of Madrid and of the Ecclesiastical Gazette. The minutes of the ceremony were signed by the baby king Alfonso XIII, aged two years and four months, for which his mother had to take his hand. It is the first signature of Alfonso XIII on an official document.
It was built by Basque craftsman in 9 years (2 on hiatus when money ran out) on sand and marsh. Amazing. I liked it because it was much more simple inside than many.
We found another church, the Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro and were able to sit and listen to choir music, that was wonderful. At the top you can see the sailing ship – that emblem is everywhere. It was the main port for the Basque region and it was a combo of port for whaling and commercial ships and a military fortress. But the marine life is much more vivid.
We found another church, the Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro and were able to sit and listen to choir music, that was wonderful. At the top you can see the sailing ship – that emblem is everywhere. It was the main port for the Basque region and it was a combo of port for whaling and commercial ships and a military fortress. But the marine life is much more vivid.
Cool double decker carousel on the bay:
The old town is gorgeous and we wandered up and down the streets and admired the bay and the incredible walls the town has put up to manage the onslaught of wind, sea, and boats that used to crash regularly.
The Bay of Biscay is famous for wrecking ships. There’s a small lighthouse, but despite warnings, ships would get swept towards shore because there’s almost always a strong onshore breeze. Also, the Continental shelf, which means shallower water, extends a long way into the Bay of Biscay, and is responsible for many problems for mariners and the weather and sea state there generally. Rick and I had heard/read about it repeatedly so it was amazing to see.
This statue is a memorial for Marti – the note said that he was fishing with his father by the time he was 9 and then sailed across to the americas for years. He then settled back in San Sebastián and was known for his kindness and commitment to helping others. He repeatedly went out to save people from wrecked boats. A boat went down off the shore and he managed to get out there and save everyone on board, but then a huge wave came and capsized his boat. Other boats had gotten out there by then and saved everyone again, except for Marti.
After wandering, we came back to the room, made decaf tea and settled in to read, opened the windows and listened to the rain and the sea. A great night.
Reb's Walks! 