Camino del Norte, 30.May.2024, Thursday

Bilbao to Portugalete, 16.7 miles

Today, we’re down to Carol, Matthew and me and we walked separately since we started from different points and probably with different plans. I walked the camino following the MacsAdventure map and they walked the river – all the way! I had no idea that was an option because I didn’t explore. I thought I would do my usual when I’m on my own, quiet for 1-2 hours, then listen to dharma and then when tired and needing motivation, go to music or a fun book. It was raining as I started so had all my gear on and my pack covered. I did do the hour and half in quiet, but the entire time was just walking through and out of Bilbao. It was interesting seeing the town, all the kids walking to school with their parents, people going to work, cafes full. 

The schools here are often in old, incredible buildings:

But – a long time of city walking. 

It’s this slow misty rain that just slicks, I was slipping and I had on hiking shoes with good treads. No wonder their sidewalks are patterned. 

Finally hit a park and as the rain continued and the views were ok – back over the city and then just kind of rural walking with houses and not, I ended up putting on a book and that’s what I did for the next many hours. I was completely soaked. Luckily, the temperature stays truly constant, high 50’s low 60’s, so I wasn’t that cold. 

I found an indoor covered area with a grocery store and pastry and got a pastry, drank my protein shake and kept going. Found another place where I could get a hot chocolate and a bathroom (!) bc the outdoors wasn’t conducive today. 

Coming into the town from up above the river.

Finally walked into Portugalete and to the best hotel yet, Gran Hotel Puente Colgante. I couldn’t believe it. Right on the river, the weather was clearing up, and Carol came out to greet me to say they’d already sat down to lunch. So a very nice start to our afternoon in the town. Per usual, Tee Travel had booked us into a good hotel with the worst room, but happily, I was able to upgrade so that I could see the river and the famous suspension bridge. And it was only 13 euros! Turns out Carol and Matthew had done the same thing. 

I was going to get a shower, but I just combed my sopping hair back like that was my norm and went down to lunch. The afternoon was very chill, walking a bit, there’s a small old town with great walking sidewalks to get you up the Main Street. 

I had a flash back to our trip to Italy last year and exploring Assisi – with Frances of Assisi and Poor Clare – amazing humans. This building was founded in 1614 by a group of Poor Clare nuns joining a group of religious women from Portugalete. It stayed until 1979 and now this monastery is the Cultural Centre for the town.

I took this photo of a photo because it’s CRAZY. If you look closely, you can see all the men on the top rigging and right at the top touching the bridge while people gather on the walk way of the bridge – they’re completely crazy too – as the boat goes under. I don’t know when this was, but not so long ago because the little sailboat next to the big boat is clearly modern. 

Matthew talked about maybe paying the 10 euros to go up the elevator and walk the bridge. I told him I’d watch while sitting on the ground bc watching him walk would make me fall down, so why not just head it off at the pass. 

We all walked down to the end of the river to the opening to the Bay of Biscaye. 

Looks like an interesting bridge, but then you realize that it carries a suspended ferry back and forth, allowing big boats (have seen freighters with tugs going by) to go under while allowing pedestrians and up to 6 cars at a time to cross the river. 

Here’s the video of the action, no need to watch to the end, I was just curious – really? Cars coming off too?

Ready for Pintxos – definitely a set-it-up-and-they-will-come scenario. 

Cool parks for kids around, this one seemed like a magical use of ancient and green – just leant itself to stories and creativity. 

Just a chill and relaxed night. I brought a couple of pintxos up to my room and finished my VERY long history blog re Bilbao. 

Leave a comment