Liendo to Noja, 17.5 miles.
Posada la Mies. Quiet, on the hill, code to get in, quirky, but friendly!
Did my usual super early wake up, decided I’d take one more day hiking alone and got up early, tiptoed around finishing packing, then did my best to silently lug down my suitcase without waking the house up. First place we’ve been in where I knew people would hear me if I wasn’t careful. I was out the door by 6:30, figured I had a few hours if it was going to rain, looked good last night.
The directions didn’t align at all and I ended up walking next to a 2 lane highway for hours, on the shoulder. In the rain. But it was Sunday, very little traffic, only 3 cars passed me and the birds were singing. Happily, it wasn’t windy at all and it wasn’t cold. So I marched on. It was one of those days that reinforces the understanding that everything changes.
A side street finally took me off the highway, then a rainbow came out, the sun peaked through and the rain starting lightning up. Then a camino sign! The first that actually seemed related to where I was going – to Laredo and ending in Noja. I followed the sign, turning down a stairway and suddenly, I was in old town Laredo at the chapel and hospital that served pilgrims in the 1600’s. So cool. Then the rain stopped. Yay.
I went into the first cafe I found for a CoalaCao and a tortilla, this time the basic eggs, patatoes, cheese and sat down under an outside heater and started drying off a bit.
Then I was back on the trail that aligned with my map, and walked the longest promenade I’ve ever seen. Miles. Long enough for it to start raining again. Curving around an enormous bay. After the old town, it was a bit odd, just 6 story buildings, one after another, most clearly empty, waiting for the summer season. But the sea was beautiful and there were people walking with their dogs and chatting. Finally came to the end where I knew I was supposed to get a ferry. That was great, wish the ride lasted longer.
Can’t see the bay to the right, just past the sea grass
Love this sign for the ferry. Not related to that long dock on the left.
Then a great little town, home of the sardine. It had all the character that I’ve come to expect in these towns, Sunday morning people getting their pastries and bread, I stopped again for decaf, pastry and the bathroom. There’s no way here for outside option, too busy.
Another statue of a woman, there are so many in this area. Her pail was full of water just as it would have been.
Then tried to take the right that the map indicated and ended up above a beach, almost crawling through these bushes on a really rocky hidden trail that climbed up a hill – finally gave up. Couldn’t believe it. I ran into someone else who’d give up and he was covered with mud and also couldn’t believe it was the trail. Back onto a highway, again, ON the highway, this one busier. Then found a side street that led down to the beach, next to an estuary, the sun fully came out and I put away my rain things. Final walked into a pretty beach town and to the hotel. Yay!!
Went to the restaurant Matthew had picked out and then Rick joined. We’re all back together, so nice. I found out that Carol had been so tired that she asked Matthew to read out the menu from the restaurant to motivate her to keep going. Love that, we are entirely differently motivated. But it worked!
After shower and organizing things, Rick and I walked around town and found the Santiago church. It was huge inside, but smelled so badly of mold that we couldn’t stay beyond a look. Weird since wooden floors, but unmistakable.
This gives a photo, better than I could take bc of its size. But we really liked the note that they didn’t have info for Noja prior to 927. Funny, as if that’s a problem.
Tomorrow, definitely following Matthew’s directions, if I can keep up, because I’d like to stay off highways. Though it turned out they were on the highways most of the time too.
Reb's Walks! 