Camino del Norte, 9.June.2024, Sunday

St. Vincente de la Barquera, 9.9 miles

Today just flew by, such an easy gorgeous walk. We both were a bit startled when it was over so quickly. And it ended at an apartment, so that was a surprise too. But the lady who checked us in was great and I managed to get everything we needed from her very fast Spanish about being in the apartment. The great thing is that there’s a washer and she said we could turn on the radiators to dry things if the rack on the balcony didn’t do the trick. And we were definitely due, I was going to find a lavandería for our clothes and then realized, oops, Sunday. Ach. 

But the walk – it was through a national park, Parque Natural de Oyambre, with some houses/farms clearly grandfathered. It was founded in 1988 after a lot of work of preservationists. And it was just beautiful. We started out with misty rain and by the end it was warm enough and we were down to t-shirts. And the terrain was mostly dirt roads and back road tarmac so easy to walk and look and listen. And that’s what we did all the way. I never turned on music or a book because it was just a treat.

Outside a pretty alburgue – seemed like people left prayers here 

The place on the left below was the only place we found for coffee and a snack on the way since we’d left so early. The name was Taberna La Gloria and that’s the church right next to it. Sunday morning. We started counting who and how many were going to the two different places. Sadly, the Taberna edged it out. When we walked by the church, there were lay people leading the reading and we didn’t see a priest, so just the neighborhood gathering together, mostly older folks. But sweet. The doors were wide open so they heard the game and the people next door in the bar. Very communal and the little town seemed pretty active. Rick’s wearing his poncho that he called the blueberry. The blueberry did get some work time!

Leaving the town, so pretty, these walls everywhere are amazing. No cement, or rarely, just very carefully placed stone.

We got into the apartment, did a load, hung it out, started the next load and went to find lunch. We went to the first restaurant we found that was full of locals and had a great dinner. We’re finally learning to share the salad or first course – we usually want salad – and then have a second. They just have enormous portions! 

Our salad had lettuce and tomato, walnuts, sardines (a totally different thing here and delicious) and a new type of thing called gula. I finally called the wait person over to ask what is this yummy little thing we’re eating? Gula – from the river. We decided they were river worms. 

Here’s what I found: Gula’s live in freshwater and travel from rivers to the Caribbean Sea, where they lay their eggs. Each specimen lays between 500,000 and 4,000,000 eggs. Initially, they have a millimetre of length, they do a 11-month trip till they arrive to the European rivers, where they finally settle down. And we eat them. Rick wondered if it was worth it. To the worm or baby eel.

The things we are learning on this trip. Also, Rick and I have started a new Netflix special and are cracking up every night. Kylie told us about it and said she’s on the third season and still laughing with every episode. Clarkson’s Farm. Guy in the Cotswolds who decides to farm his farm himself after stopping his career. Truly funny. 

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