Germany, 27.July.2024, Saturday

Munich, the White Rose movement, and Taylor Swift

I know that this week all started with Holly and me thinking about seeing Taylor Swift, but the trip has turned out to be so much more than that, starting with Dachau. Today was my last day to learn more, following up on pieces that I had seen or learned about this week. 

I decided to get back to some of the history related to WWII and to walk around Munich some more, just learning the city a bit. I started with trying to find where the Holocaust memorial plaques were placed – it’s an ongoing project. Munich decided they wanted to move from the “stumbling stone” approach that they and many other European cities have used – plaques in the ground where people were taken, the name, date, reason, date when the person died and where. Munich is now putting plaques on the sides of building where people lived as a more respectful way of honoring victims of the Third Reich instead of possibly walking on them if not noticed. That being said, I did notice the ground plaques; we all thought people looked down more than up. But – glad they’ll have both.

I was looking online to figure out where to go to see some of the new plaques and found a woman who’s passionate about WWII, loves Munich and gave a lot of information and ideas. Munich WWII Sites: 26 Eye-Opening Spots You Need To Know

I wish I’d found this sooner. There’s a tour she notes that I’d have loved to do, but it was booked up: Munich: Resistance against Hitler – Historical Walking Tour | GetYourGuide

Tricia wanted to get out in the early morning before it got hot to see one of the plaques as well, so we went together to the closest one before she went back to rest her foot. This plaque was within .4 miles of the hotel: 4 members of the same family. 

I then continued on and found this – I’d read about it, but still found it so confusing. After 2009 which Michael Jackson died, fans set up a memorial on the statue of the composer Orlande de Lassus across from a hotel where Michael Jackson stayed. A number of people are not happy about this memorial and every morning go spread bird feed at the base of the statue in hopes that the birds will destroy all the daily contributions of fans. 

I was trying to find the plaque remembering Albertine Neuland,  I did find her house before Kristalnacht when she was thrown out, which made it clear that no one was immune or safe because it was a gorgeous house.

I never found her plaque, but I did find this website. She died when America refused her entry because of her age despite her son in America who did everything he could to get her to the states. 

I kept walking and found myself in a neighborhood with a lot of Arabic shops and restaurants mixed in and just saw regular Munich since I was quickly out of the main tourist areas. A lot to people were in cafes and as I passed one group, I heard “Oh, mein gott” and I thought – I do know some German!

I found more plaques as I headed towards LMU and also passed this:

I arrived at Ludwig Maximilian University assembly hall and The White Rose Resistance to the NS Dictatorship Museum. Here are photos of Sophie, and of 6 of the 7, a memorial in the hall, and the hall. 

Sophie threw pamphlets from the balcony, was seen by the janitor who turned her in.

Briefly, 7 people, 6 students and a professor initiated a resistance group spreading pamphlets as far across the country as they could, starting in Munich, right next to Hitler and the regime headquartered here. 3 of the students were medical students and had already been sent to the front. They saw what was being done to the Poles, to the Russians and had to speak up. Unbelievably brave. 

The museum was incredible. I was immersed, reading about all 7 of the people who were the leaders, what happened to their families, how the word spread. I read everything. When I walked out into modern day Munich, it was jarring. A link for a bit of the story: The White Rose Opposition Movement | Holocaust Encyclopedia

Within a few blocks I saw another acknowledgement of someone killed. The addition to the sign said this:

Then back to the hotel and Tricia and I decided to use the credit (love how they do that, as if you weren’t paying for it) that each person got at the hotel for incidentals and went to a late lunch in the hotel restaurant. It turned out to be an incredible meal and enough to hold us through the rest of the day/concert.

And now, the Taylor Swift concert. Flynn came to Tricia’s and my room and used the hair dyes I’d gotten and gave me tips for make-up and getting more color into my hair. Then – we were off!

First, I have to say – the concert was so totally worth the trip, though the rest of the trip put it into perspective. But my goodness, Taylor Swift is incredible. She made you feel like everyone there was beloved and she was so happy to see all of us. She thanked the crowd of 74,000 plus acknowledged the crowds of people on the hills behind the stadium, 2000? I heard estimates of that additional crowd. Some waiting since 5 that morning to be able to see and hear what they could from above. 

It was truly fun to be there with Flynn who knows EVERY word and gesture and sang along with every song. She was adorable. I sang along with what I knew and just enjoyed the rest. We left the hotel at 5 and got back at 1am and it never stopped being fun. Well, actually I thought the opening band was boring and ended up reading my book on my phone. Kylie told me that Paramore was actually a big pop band and very popular. I mean the lead was cute, but nope, the music did nothing for me or anyone else in our group. But the minute Taylor started revving the crowd and then appeared – totally great. What a great way to end an amazing week!