Fié Allo Sciliar, 7.July.2025

Day 2 Hiking

We walked outside our hotel on the Völser Weiner Route, our first hike of the day. It was 5.4 miles, 1500’ elevation gain, 900’ loss. This gain loss is what I’d heard a lot about for the Dolomites. Sometimes it did feel like a steady serious uphill or downhill, but except for our next to last day, it was never super hard. It was definitely manageable and the miles were never that long the way we were scheduled. That being said – you could do seriously long hikes if you wanted to, trails go ALL over these mountains. 

A note re our hotel – and turns out all of these hotels – they’re “wellness” centers. What does that mean? Goodness, spa, sauna, steam, pools. And in this ancient hotel, they’d carved out spaces in so many directions that Rick and I took at least 30 minutes just to explore and see what was what. It wasn’t until we left after 2 nights that we found out there were two more steam and sauna rooms that we’d completely missed. Rick went for a massage yesterday and Sara texted me asking if I wanted to go to the sauna. Ok. Happy to do it with someone else. You can’t wear bathing suits in the sauna so our group by consensus said we were all going to wrap our towels around us. Sara had come up to see our room and when we were looking out the window we saw at a distance a bunch of people drop their towels and get into the fountain pool. Hmmm.

So we went down and to the sauna and baked. A lot. Then we really wanted to go to the pool but didn’t have suits. We finally decided, with some prodding on my part, to go to that same fountain pool and if no one was there we knew,  we’d go behind the statue and hop in. We did and felt quite brave and pleased with ourselves. And what a great way to recover from the sauna!

We walked outside our hotel of our hotel, down the hill and the first site was a memorial to WWI with bits and pieces the artist had found on the hillsides. WWII was not fought in this area because they’d realized how futile it was to try to fight in the nooks and crevices of these mountains. Refugees and resistance fighters were able to hide here.

Our hike today set the frame of all the days. We were going valley to valley around the Schwerin massif, “an enduring symbol of South Tyrol.”. But first, orchards, vineyards, dairy farms…

Looking back down over the church and our hotel – the building just to the right of the church. This is a lot of town are, nestled into a side of a mountain. 

Carol and Matthew on the way up, past beautiful meadows and then into the woods. 

And our next lunch rifugio with Sara and Marla to welcome me 🙂

And after another amazing lunch, we were off to a mountain lake for swimming. 

Here’s the Schwerin massif at the center of 5 valleys. We would see 4 and peak over the top to the fifth over the days of hiking.

We came back into town, but I had some energy and really wanted to see that little church we could see out our window. It looked so far away, but Elizabeth, the youngest amongst us, had already explored early that morning and said it was a wonderful church built on ruins. And that there was a wonderful jeweler in town and worth seeing her shop. So church first.

This plaque explains some of the archeology that was happening around the church. There was a little chapel outside the cathedral that was closed and had a sign “churches, museum and aperitif tours”.  Bewildering combo, but this site explained that the chapel was the archeological museum. 

I climbed up the hill towards the church passing this site. I went inside and there was a space carved out from the rock that was tiny. How 80 people could fit in here was bewildering, but it did feel protected. 

It watched over the town.

In town looking up at church

On my way back, I went into the jeweler hoping to find a wedding ring for Rick. Yes, 36 years later. Several years ago, he’d put his ring into my hands for safe keeping. I have no idea what happened, but it was lost. We were in the Romantik hotel, in a darling little town, on a totally amazing trip with some of our oldest friends (college, Quaker meeting, NY roommate) and wouldn’t that be a cool place to find a ring? 

I was completely sweaty from the day, but went in and the goldsmith was a darling woman, so appealing and she did have rings. So I went back and had a shower and asked Rick if we could look for a ring for him. And we found one! We both think it’s perfect and I love seeing it on his hand. The goldsmith had to make a new one to his size so we had to go back at 7. In the meantime, we went to have a cocktail/mocktail on the patio at the hotel. Funny little statues around the place – actually a ton of art all over the hotel, but here’s a snippet. 

We then had a dinner out at a woman’s house. She and her husband cook dinners for the group all local food, from her garden or within a few k of her house. She announced a wine that was within 1 k and another that was 7 k away. She’s been recognized – magazine covers around the kitchen – for her part of the Slow Food movement. Another astonishing meal. So efficiently served and delicious. The apricot cake was my favorite. 

Rick decided to get some quiet time (there’s very little on this trip) and stayed home, picked up the new ring and had a quiet dinner at the hotel.