Fié Allo Sciliar, 10.July.2025

Day 5 of hiking

Today was some serious up and downing and an exploration of the remnants of WW1. One of our team was a military guy and he’d been studying the area so was really pleased to get to explore. 

So – again, Italy was fighting against the Austrians and Germany during this war. Even though a lot of the people in this area considered themselves Austrian. Hard, to say the least.

We walked all the routes laid out for the day and it was truly beautiful. For something different.

We took a shuttle to Bai des Dones for a chairlift to our trailhead. We met a local guide, Christina, who talked about WWI and the geological formations around us. Luca was very knowledgeable as well so could fill in those of us who were at the back, trying to read the signs and learn what was happening. I wasn’t very interested in the machinery of war, but more so in the lives of those in the midst. 

We saw trenches, bunkers, and tunnels. 

Where we were going to hike to see from the top seemed incredibly far, but it actually wasn’t the hardest hike of the week. Just long.

Martin presenting our day

I took a video of the surrounding mountains, incredible (word of the week) and on the next to last mountain in the video is our hiking destination after exploring WWI. Really?

These are the Cinque Torri, a group of 5 rocks where the weathering has left a distinctive grouping. Giant and people were rock climbing all over the place, but especially the one on the right.

But first – WWI. Again, remember that they were fighting, largely against their will, their neighbors. The second note made it clear:

In the trenches, these are obviously restructured on the original. But they looked out over steep mountain drop offs. 

Getting paid and needing food

Cortina is the closest valley to this bunker and the trenches. The outdoor competitions of the Winter Olympics are going to be here in February 2026. A lot of infrastructure is being built, especially because of climate change and needing to be able to make enough snow. 

This is what they were looking at from the bunkers. Impossible to defend or to really attack, though bombs were dropped. This territory was not fought over in WWII.

Headquarters – rough. And looking out from another bunker

Three dogs in this photo – in many of the photos, there are dogs. Comfort? Looks like it since two are being held here.

And now – I’ve skipped a whole lot of info re artillery. But this gives a snippet of the population’s attitudes and lives in the midst. And now we’re on our way to hike. Still a bit disconcerting for where we’re aiming – yes that little white speck on the top. But I’m psyched since I did a shorter hike yesterday.

Climbers

Hiking up to the top – there’s Cinque Torre – it looks so small!

Made it to that little white speck!

Someone at the very tip top of another mountain nearby.

We went down a bit to our last incredible rifugio. Then we started basically a full scramble, hardest hike of the week down to a little mountain lake. The knees had a lot to say on this one. But almost everyone did it!

This photo was the best I could do looking back up what we’d descended. It was a lot steeper than it looks. We were all very pleased to make our way down it!

This does the best (for me) at showing the gorgeous juxtaposition of the many colors of flowers and grasses against the bare mountains. I never stopped marveling and appreciating the colors. 

The lake at the end of this beautiful trail that was our reward after the scramble.

Elizabeth recovering

Then back to our hotel via bus, except for maybe 5, including Rick, who did the last mile back on foot. I was psyched to do the  – yep – steam rooms at The Wellness Hotel Fanes.

Rick booked it and made it in time and we did the round about sauna. It was seriously hot, but cool. Glad I got to do it with Rick. Everyone but one couple were circumspect and wore towels, so it wasn’t just the puritanical Americans…And the whole sauna really did do a very slow rotation. Good thing Rick had warned me because the first time he thought maybe the heat had gotten to him, not realizing that it rotated. 

We had a final group dinner with the guides, very fun, favorite memories in a fingersnap and then we continued the ongoing conversations during dinner. Really, the best group I could imagine.

Leave a comment