Author: RebWhite

Today, we started the Via Francigena. 15 miles, supposed to rain, but we were set, had water, sandwiches, few snacks and rain coats. So psyched to be on another camino – called the same thing here as in Spain. Here’s some background to the VF, courtesy of the VF website.

Via Francigena, that is to say “road that originates from France”. The name included, beyond the current French territory, also the area of the the Rhine valley and the Netherlands.At that time, the traffic along the Via was growing, so that the path established itself as the main connection axis between the North and the South of Europe, along which merchants, armies and pilgrims passed through.

Between the end of the first millennium and the beginning of the second, the practice of pilgrimage acquired a growing importance. The holy places of Christianity were Jerusalem, Santiago de Compostela and Rome, and the Via Francigena represented the central junction of the great faith roads. Pilgrims coming from North travelled on the Via towards Rome and eventually along the Appian Way towards the bridges of Puglia, where they could embark for the Holy Land. Vice versa, Italian pilgrims that were headed towards Santiago, travelled on the Via towards North, to reach Luni, where they could embark for the bridges of France or they could continue towards Moncenisio and then to the Via Tolosana, that led to Spain. Pilgrimage soon became a mass phenomenon and this intensified the role of the Via Francigena, that became a determinant communication channel for the realisation of cultural unity, that characterised Europe during the Middle Ages. 

It is mainly thanks to the travel journals, and in particular the notes of the illustrious pilgrim Sigeric, that we can nowadays reconstruct the ancient path of the Francigena. In 990, after being ordained as Archbishop of Canterbury by Pope John XV, the abbot went back home noting on two manuscript pages the 80 mansions where he stopped for the night. Sigeric’s journal is still considered the most authoritative source, so much so that often we talk about “Via Francigena according to Sigeric’s itinerary”, in order to define a more “philological” version of the path.

So – there’s a synopsis. We’re doing Stage 90-95 through Tuscany. We have our pilgrim’s passports, good shoes, hiker’s goo and lambs wool to assist the feet. Rick has a fanny pack with a shoulder strap and is keeping it light, actually let me carry one of his bottles of water as well as his small protein shake. You know he’s hurting when that happens. But we’re off – the little sign between Bob and Susan is what we were keeping an eye out for, plus I was tracking on AllTrails and the others were using MacsAdventure’s maps. 

Right away, I darted off the path to see this very small church, so cool. Built in 1524 during a plague period and dedicated to Saint Sebastian, patron saint against the plague. I thought the mural was amazing. The others rolled their eyes, but then came back because I took so long. I was trying to talk with the woman who’d just opened the church. Oh, if only I could speak as much Italian as Spanish! Not that I know much Spanish, but I could have understood some of it for sure…

We walked from San Miniato to Gambassi Terme. In a word – gorgeous, just so beautiful. None of us could believe it. I felt so so lucky to be walking with Rick and friends we’ve known for almost as long as Rick and I have known each other – in Italy! And seeing scenery that at every turn gave a new gift. Sadly, my photos aren’t great at capturing, but I tried! 

And this church – obviously not doing great, doesn’t seem to be used, but the parish dates back to the time of Sigeric and was recorded as one of his halting places. 

And then more scenery:

And, finally, we arrived at Gambassi Terme. We were lucky that there were 2 water fountains on the way because it was hot and we ran out. Gambassi Terme is small, probably lovely, but all we wanted was a shower and then dinner, in a big way. Our hostess at the B&B welcomed us and said there were no restaurants in the town. But there was one pizzeria that was open. We went early. And thank goodness because we were able to sit at the bar. The place only had 4 tables and people kept coming in looking so hungry. Probably all the other people who’d hiked that day. They did get in, but it took a while. Salad, pasta carbonara and I ate every bite. Wonderful. 

Today was such a fun day. We did a brief walk around Florence, hitting the highlights again with Bob and Susan. This time I got a photo of the actual grill through which babies were passed to the foundling hospital. They had to fit through the grid, and were placed on a soft cushion then taken to the wet nurse area. The grid looked absolutely tiny, only small babies were accepted, older children had to go elsewhere. 

Shoot, Susan took the photo, I forgot my camera, I’ll post later.

Then we packed up and took a taxi to San Miniato, a medieval village that was our start point for the Via Francigena. We walked all over town, then on our way to hotel (an old convent), took the wrong road. All together walked 10 miles, not really our plan. But Rick said, ok, think I can do 15 tomorrow. We knew that there was no support/cafes/nothing for the entire 15 miles, so found sandwiches for the next day. Only options were flatbread with ham and cheese, or focaccia with ham and cheese. Rick’s had to toss vegetarianism and GF to the wayside, though we keep trying. 

My first church, right in the center of town, huge. But this was just one of maybe 5 that we saw? Huge and in such a tiny town. Can’t imagine how they afforded or made them. This one is the Cathedral of Sant Maria and San Genesis, first erected in the 1200’s, enlarged in the 1400’s. 

Random view between 2 windows.

Gorgeous town.

One of the first walks was after the church and up the hill to the Torre de Frederico II. Hadn’t started the hike and already climbing. 

The tower was built between 1217-1223, destroyed by the Germans, then rebuilt exactly. Amazing that they were building things like this in the 1200’s. I bought tickets for all of us, started up the open staircase and got all of one flight up when I realized – nope. But I tried!

View from next to the tower and us sitting next to the view.

We’d had a big breakfast at our hotel and around 3 started getting hungry, we stopped to look at a restaurant and a young guy came running out – we can have you if you come in now, closing at 4. Oh right – nothing between 4 and 8 generally – we’d be WAY too tired to make it, so had lunch and then after all our walking and resting a bit, went back out for gelato. I’ve actually never liked gelato much, but this was so good! We all had a very small one, then Rick and I looked at each other and went right back for another one, a perfect dinner.

We expected to be asleep by 9, but Rick was enjoying the book, The Wager, so much we stayed up till 10:20, crazy, but he finished it!

We made it, really didn’t know how it would unfold after Rick’s bike accident. But he did well on the plane and seems like he might be able to walk some if not all of the Camino starting Monday. We also like the potential of taxis!

My first picture is from the plane. I couldn’t believe how beautiful Florence looked and that was just from the sky! Gorgeous day, sunny, nice temps, upper 70’s, and the contrast between the green and the red roofs, amazing. 

We got to our hotel, next photo of our window, so pretty! 

And then we didn’t do anything else. We had quick walked from plane to plane in Munich and actually made the connection despite delays. Worried it would take a toll on Rick, but again, he didn’t seem to have any damage from the pace, our bags didn’t make it, but we did. Our hotel is a Palacio from the late 1400’s and it has a really large garden with all kinds of statues. 

We asked if it would be possible to get a tour guide just to get a sense of Florence since we only had one day. The hotel concierge said, well, I don’t know, very unlikely as it’s so last minute and then he called – we got one of our favorites! Chiara was her name and she was wonderful.

We had a slow breakfast, met Chiara and off we walked. We’re close to the city center and she was able to show us the highlights and tell us history and details about what we were seeing. As Rick said, “That was fantastic, I never would have learned anything if we’d just walked.” Chiara was passionate about history and how important it is to understand what’s come before in order to not repeat. 

And the crowds, goodness. But it was all cheerful and fun to hear the languages. 

Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, the start of the renaissance happened here (according to Chiara). This was the first building that Brunelleschi designed and he was making a statement – that the windows and shapes reflected the shape of a person’s head and shoulders, thus the arch. No longer the steep shapes that pointed to heaven and were meant to remind humans how small they were in comparison to God. This the Hospital of the Innocents for orphans. Brunelleschi said that he wanted to give beauty to the orphans to try to make up for how hard their lives were. There’s a famous wheel  that is still visible where it was possible to abandon newborns anonymously by making them enter a cavity that was opened by turning the wooden wheel.

This is the baptistery in front of the Duomo (cathedral), started in 1069, solely for baptisms. You weren’t allowed to enter the church without having been baptized. 

Impossible to actually get a full photo of the Duomo, but it was truly spectacular. It’s been cleaned and they’re working their way around the building – the detailing was remarkable. The dome by Brunelleschi was the final piece and was put on after 20 years of a giant empty hole at the end of the cathedral because no one could figure out how to put on a dome. They had a competition for who could design the dome and Brunelleschi won. Happily, he lived the 15 years it took to finish it because he was the ONLY one who knew how to do it. He then destroyed all of his notes so that no one else could replicate his design. 

Ponte Vecchio – pictures of us on the only surviving bridge over the Arno River after WWII. The reason it survived is because the Italian general directing the strikes (to keep the allies from moving their weapons and troops through town) had gone through the upper corridor that connects the Palazzo Vecchio (Florence’s town hall where Cosimo de Medici governed) with the Palazzo Pitti (where Cosimo lived) in 1565. The general had seen all of these portraits of Cosimo in the corridor and knew there was valuable history and that it shouldn’t be destroyed. Plus he knew that the bridge itself couldn’t hold the heavy allied vehicles. So he bombed the roads leading up to the bridge and all of the other bridges, but saved this one. 

Anna Maria Luisa de Medici was the last surviving Medici. They had inbred to keep the assets in the family and by the end, all were sterile or impacted by other health issues. Since there was a law from the 9th century that women couldn’t rule, she knew that the Hapsburgs would inherit. She changed her will so that all of her holdings were to be given to the city of Florence upon her death. Thus the city was able to hold onto all of the paintings and statues from the renaissance. They couldn’t hold onto the jewelry because the Hapsburgs would just put it on and carry it away…

And Chiara, our wonderful guide, jumped into the ticket office for the Accademia Gallery of Florence as we passed by and said – wow, there’s no line! If you want to see the David, go ahead and buy tickets and then come back. So we did – got tickets for 5 to close the museum. Finished our walk with Chiara, came back to the hotel for a break (ice for Rick) then back out 10 minutes away and saw the David (and the rest of the museum). Just astonishing. 

Then Bob and Susan came in! Yay, so fun, and we’re off tomorrow to start our Camino on the Via Francigena

I was able to go into the church that was part of the convent where I was staying. I also learned that in Spanish, it was called a convent if it was in a city, whether for nuns or monks and monastery was a word reserved for the communities outside of the cities. So this is a San Franciscan convent. And – a wedding was going to happen so here’s one of the friars.

That cathedral that felt pretty dreadful in Malide was in real constrast to this one. Almost all the images were uplifting, inspiring and the whole place felt wonderful and welcoming. 

The image below was just to the left of the altar – of a pilgrim. 

I’m standing in one place and this is the street that leads between where I’m staying and the cathedral – the big one!

Last view – angels on top of the San Franciscan church. Even the outside is inviting.

I started off before 8 from Arzua and was immediately engulfed in a throng. Seriously a lot of people on the trail, tromping of feet and laughing chatting voices in several languages. The umbrella shot of the bridge was just fun, it was misty and droplets, but no rain for the whole day, really nice. 

Then, just before I was supposed to stop for the night, I was having a hot chocolate and realizing how early it was. I’d already been in the area, though different place, and it was only 12:30. I knew there was nothing to do, but ok. Then the women from Barcelona that I’d chatted with off and on for days stopped at my table. They were continuing on past my stop until 8k before Santiago. That way they could get to Santiago early since they were flying out on Saturday. Hmmm. I could go all the way to Santiago. It’s early, I feel pretty good and had a short day yesterday. So – I changed hotels, got my bag moved and continued on. It was actually really nice. Since no one seemed to be doing the same thing I was, I quickly left everyone behind and was basically alone again for my last day. And, even near Santiago, there was still a fair amount of country. 

This roof was being repaired with the most beautiful clay shingles, I marveled because this must be the start of doing something with one of these ancient stone structures. Would love to see it when it’s done because it’s hard to imagine. 

This lane is between the airport and getting to Santiago. They must protect the Camino is all I can think. 

Those two statues in the distance? They’re where pilgrims can first see the cathedral. I was WAY too tired to walk over there. 

Knights Templar – just have a ring to the name because of their history.

And – I’m here!

Last time, Rick and I stayed at a totally cool hotel, but that was occupied. This was where I ended up. This is the dining room! Crazy these old spaces. The Hotel Monumento San Francisco. This is a San Franciscan Monastery turned hotel, but there are still private areas (probably huge spaces) and 9 monks still live here. 

The spaces are huge – two internal courtyards that I could see, but the main church isn’t even part of the hotel. I don’t know if you can go in. I’m going back out today and will see.

Went to the 7:30am service, had forgotten how odd (to my eyes) the alter is with those faces of the angels (?) holding the whole thing up. But lovely to be there early, about 60 people at the service. 

Morning time. 

I don’t know why, but I was tired today and it’s my shortest day of the whole trip. It rained all day, but I was warm and comfortable and it was a lighter rain than yesterday. I looked back at the route to see what I’d written last year when Rick and I were walking this and there was so much more history because of my resource book. I liked seeing some of the same places and actually, tonight, I’m staying in the same place we stayed in before. It’ll be the only time. I’d love to have Rick with me here to revisit together. 

Isn’t this pretty? All one farmhouse and buildings.

I left early, seeing large groups of both adults and students loading their luggage, so leaving early allowed for a bit of quiet time on the trail. I also consistently chose the alternative route that was the original. So few people make this choice because it usually adds a bit to the day. And it’s always been beautiful!

This is the church that was the stopping point during the Spanish flu period – pilgrims couldn’t go further, so if they made it here, they got their certificate or whatever it was they were given for making the pilgrimage. 

Another wonderful stone village. I haven’t mentioned it but I watched Beauty and the Beast on the plane – can only handle seriously light material when I need to sleep. And I’ve been singing Emma Watson’s first song ever since, about the provincial village. So stuck and has been since I started walking. 

This is from my room, so pretty and thinking it’ll be quieter tonight, might not even need my phone’s river sound noise!

The photo below is from the place I stayed last night. So beautiful. The previous owners did an incredible job of adapting a very old farmhouse into a truly inviting home/B&B. And – they get to look at this, but not be responsible for cows or land since they just have the land the house sits on. The new owners were thrilled about that piece, though wished the cows wouldn’t share their flies quite so generously. 

And this is today. I had one of those giddy happy moments here, just me and the mist/rain. Actually, once it started to rain, it didn’t stop for the rest of the day, but at this point, I loved it. The day started with some confusion on my part. I’d been picked up yesterday and the notes from Camino Ways, who organized everything, said they’d take me back down in the morning. But as I got ready to go, 2 other guys were leaving and the owner said – oh yes, just walk out that door over there. What? Well, turns out that the road we came up was the Camino and I hadn’t realized because I’d so enjoyed looking at the view and listening to the girls and their dad talk in German. Hmm, so do I worry that I missed 3.9 miles of the Camino? Not enough to go down and then back up. Plus I walked a ton in Lugo, that covers just the mileage, so off I went on my happy way. The advantage was that since we were 3.9 miles outside of Ferreira, no one else was walking here on the Camino yet and the two guys ahead of me walked much faster. Thus, the quiet.

Then about 15-20 minutes later, I looked up and I was back where I’d started! Good grief. I could not figure out how I got there, but luckily, a taxi was passing and turned me around and said go that way. Mind you, there’s only one taxi for the whole area – nice timing. Well, that made up for 1.5 miles of what I missed. 

Did I write about this yet? I was looking back at last year’s Camino notes and I wrote about it there, but this is a hollow way and it’s the same phrase here as in England, where I first learned about it. A road walked for so many years, it’s sunk down from the surrounding land. I’m walking in history’s footsteps of the regular folks and pilgrims.

Do you see them? I couldn’t…

I was SO wet when I got to the hotel. Startled, per usual, to walk into town suddenly. I went to my room, radiators not working yet – nowhere – how am I going to dry anything? Then I heard all around me people in their rooms chatting through the windows onto this central covered space, I looked out and they’d all popped out these hanging racks and were putting their things out. Cool! I took the photo without the guy across from me because he’d already taken everything off at least on top and I didn’t want to take a chance of looking too closely. They were all hilarious chatting. The woman next to me told me we were neighbors now hanging our things out to dry – couldn’t tell you what else she said, this is all I got. 

I wrote about the history of these places in Melide last year. But what I was struck by this year was how grim it was in this cathedral. I don’t know how anyone would grow up with a positive or hopeful spiritual life if you were in this space every day. Blood, swords, hearts outside the body with knives stuck in. Every church/cathedral has it’s own character and feeling which is interesting since it’s all the same religion. 

This little chapel was my favorite space in this town last year and this year, I was struck by the fact that Mary’s robe looks a lot like the blue blanket Kaziah used to use when she was 5-6 and playing at being Mary with it draped just the same way. 

Wonderful Camino fountain. As of today, I’m now on the Camino Frances, repeating what Rick and I did last year. Technically, I’m still on the Camino Primitivo since that was my path of origin. We were so lucky last year – it was a month and a day later in the year and yet we had such good weather. Hoping maybe it won’t rain quite so much tomorrow, but no matter, it’s a short day. Only 13k. 

Today started out beautifully, I left at 7:45 and was happy I’d prewalked yesterday to know where I was going. Loved this photo start below – crossing the river. 

This was the church of San Lazaro, below was the hospital of San Lazaro. The sign about it was great. I’ve noticed a few signs now that are blunt (snarky?) about poorly done remodels of ancient buildings: This hospital (the row on the left) has existed from at least the XII century, but its current state arises from its final reconstruction carried out in 1779….In spite of its division and subsequent practical alterations devoid of aesthetic touch, the original space has been preserved mostly with integrity. 

Hard to capture, but Lugo was really big – had no idea because they somehow craft the Camino to easily go from country to city and back out again. 

It actually took a while to get to this state of country – rural with intermittent houses for at least an hour or two before started having country paths instead of road. I was just really happy that we did still get paths and birdsong!

Yep, hitting tired here. Forgot to take the photo of the object written about here. This sign is saying that the stone column is a replica of an original Roman milestone (it’s now in a museum), that was here, on the Primitive Way. This milestone was dedicated to Caligula and served to mark the distance between different populations. There was another milestone in the next town dedicated to Marcus Aurelio. People have been traveling these roads for a long time! 

So appreciated that the farmer sowed his corn field (now cut down) around these two wonderful trees.

Much fewer cows, a lot more corn, still so pretty. 

I got to Ferreira, a town of one cafe and 3 albergue spread out. I’m sure there are houses, but didn’t see that many. I waited at an albergue for the owner of the place I was staying to come pick me up. I chatted with the women owner for quite a while, super nice. She was Dutch and she and her husband had done a lot of different Caminos, but liked Galicia the most. They looked and looked and finally found an albergue that was nice enough, small enough to manage, and in a good spot. They’ve been running it since 2018, weathererd COVID, but are now looking to sell next year. 26 beds in 3 bunk rooms, vegetarian communal dinner every night, no help, all sheets, cleaning, she’s getting tired. I was just amazed. 

Then the husband of the couple running the house where I was staying picked me up. He was young and had just picked his girls up from school, 9 and 5 years old. I thought he didn’t look Spanish and then his girls started talking – in German. They had moved two weeks ago and took over this guest house from the previous owners, with the bookings and all furnishings just carrying on. Wow. Brave. The couple is lovely, both cook, and the woman told me that she now has 3 full time jobs doing this, and is only now realizing that it’s really happening. The girls are in school in classes that are split between Spanish and Galician. Amazing. 

Both husband and wife seemed really happy and somehow both focused on their daughters and yet taking great care of the 7 of us who are here. 

What a luxury to just be able to walk and explore with no agenda. And I easily found food! They start breakfast at 7 here so I could figure out which way I’m going tomorrow when I start again and then go to a service at the Cathedral at 9. This is morning walking towards the cathedral. 

I walked down to where the Camino left town – the walled city really is at the top of a hill. As soon as you walk outside the wall, in any direction, it’s headed downhill and towards 1 of 3 rivers depending on your direction. As I was walking back up the hill, I ran into 1 of 2 fellow Americans who’ve been on the trail these past days. John was hoping to connect with someone who might have found his glasses, but said they weren’t that needed and he’d rather join me going to the service. 

I knew he was from PA and by the end of the conversation, knew that John was from Allentown, knows a friend of Rick’s who lives in Phillipsburg, John’s niece was at Haverford the same time as Kaziah and he is a priest who went to seminary just down the way from Haverford. 

John’d gone to service the night before so knew where to go – it’s a giant cathedral with many spaces and he set me up here, at Our Lady of the Big Eyes (Mary, just FYI). She’s revered in Lugo, is the patron saint, and the tabernacle in the altar holds the Blessed Sacrament and this has been continual for 1500 years, starting with the Romans. 

Here’s the history of the Blessed Sacrament in Lugo: The custom of perpetually adoring Jesus in the consecrated Eucharistic host has a long history in the Catholic Church, and some claim it all started in Lugo, Spain.

For many centuries Christians were not able to reserve the Eucharist in their churches, as they were often persecuted and only kept enough hosts to deliver to the sick and homebound.

However, after Christianity spread throughout the Roman Empire, permanent churches were built, as well as tabernacles to house the consecrated hosts.

In the Roman Rite, a tradition started to develop of exposing the Eucharistic host on the altar and inviting parishioners to stay there praying in shifts before Jesus.

According to local legends and stories, the cathedral in Lugo, Spain, might have been one of the first churches ever to start such a custom. What is even more remarkable is that this custom continues to the present day.

The official website of the Cathedral in Lugo offers this explanation.

In the main chapel of the cathedral of Lugo, the Blessed Sacrament is permanently on display. Since time immemorial, day and night. Represented in the coat of arms of Galicia, it makes the Lugo cathedral a unique example of perpetual adoration of Jesus. It is a unique tradition in the world. For this reason Lugo is known as Lugo Ciudad del Sacramento. The main chapel is the spiritual heart of the cathedral, where its inhabitants go to pray almost continuously.

Back to Mary: Because of her history with the church and Lugo, she’s a reason for pilgrimage alone and those who are Mary followers, have been coming since the 1600’s to see her, though this alter was built later, finished in 1832. They used to kneel in a circle all the way around the altar. There were Mary’s in a special room in the museum that were from the 1100’s, but not all were in this chapel.

The chapel was small, but felt big. There were 3 rows of tiny benches that went all the way around, big enough for 2 each, though no one shared and people also sat outside on benches that circled the main alter behind your back if you’re looking at Mary. There were at least 30 people in attendance, and the acoustics of the chapel made it sound like it was a full gathering. And John, the American priest, came out in sacraments and assisted the priest. He knew everything in Spanish and read in Spanish as well. He’s not fluent, but he must have prepared a lot for this. I was impressed. He found me later and said thanks, he seemed so happy to be able to take part. 

Going to mass, talking with John, who hasn’t done the Frances, reinforced how different this Camino has been from the last. So much less church, mass, pilgrimage focused. It was wonderful to sit in the chapel and see the service. It was still an older crowd, but it was Monday morning so made sense and they were devoted. It just felt right for being on the Camino. 

This is the bridge outside the cathedral that leads up to the walled walk, going under the bridge leads you out of the walled city and connects you to the camino. But before I did that, I did the service and then spent an hour with the audio guide learning about the church, the cloisters and the museum. It was great and while I was walking/tiptoeing around, there was a full sung mass going on that happened after the service I was in. The organ, the singer, the priest, all had talent and it was beautiful to be in the church, learning about the history (earliest pieces of the building are from the 600’s) and seeing the art. Amazing. The cathedral in Leon is still by far my favorite, but I loved learning about this one. 

This was the back entrance, I don’t know when they use this area, it was classical instead of baroque and seemed calmer. 

And this is the main alter. Huge. I’m sitting in the choir pews, ornately and beautifully carved. This is the only cathedral that kept the choir and organ in the middle, just as it was in the Middle Ages when all took part in the service and read from the huge books that were in the center of the choir. 

One of the streets in the city. I couldn’t believe how big it felt inside the walls. Cars and vans could come in, but it was either very controlled, or people just knew – you don’t drive in unless you have to to do deliveries or you’re a resident and have actual parking. That was for very few. 

And now I’ve walked up that bridge from the cathedral and am on the walk. It is very wide, sand covered and high, with grates and low walls. I was not comfortable at all. I walked in the very center, kept having to regulate my breath to bring my heart rate down. No one else seemed concerned at all. I passed 2 people sitting on the wall for photos and a guy rolling a ball for a border collie – hello, they jump!!! All three made me want to crawl for a while instead of walk. It was a very long 2.2 kilometers. But amazing. It just went on and on. 

A school in the walls! Imagine growing up thinking it’s normal for the wall of your playground to be a medieval city wall. 

I made myself go down at the 6th portal (there are 13 portals, some closed, some walks, some drivable) to find where the 100km marker was for the Camino. I hadn’t seen it when I walked in and someone told me where to look. I then passed 3 French women I knew from the walk, they were just coming in and said yes, it’s just down there it’s brown. Good grief. I’m guessing noone else missed it. In order to get the camino certificate, you have to start at 100km minimum. I just wanted to see the marker…

I was so happy being on level ground, I walked easily and briskly down and back up from the marker, and then made myself go back up to the wall walk. 

This is a Roman house, 3-4th century that was found under a building in 1998. Can you imagine the dismay of the people building above and the thrill of the archaeologists? Amazing mosaics still intact. They know there’s a lot more under the next building, but…

A Franciscan church that I really liked. Quiet, serene. 

There’s poetry in so many places, this country appreciates the written word and art if the demonstrations and markers are anything to go by. 

This is where I walked today.

This is a blow up of the interior. Hmmm. Looks a little confused – but it really was a mix of hither and yon. 

Walked into another beautiful misty country day, but no rain. The walking was also much easier with ups and downs and different types of trails, but not mountains or steep pitches. 

By now, I recognize every single person on the trail. I’m guessing there are about 20 of us on the same day schedule? We all smile at each other now, mixing Spanish, French, and English. The Germans and Scandinavians use one of those other languages so that we can talk. It’s nice. Many of us are taking a day off in Lugo, but Lugo is also a start point for a lot of people because it’s 100k from Santiago. I wonder how many of the 20 I’ll see day after tomorrow…

Per my Wise Pilgrim app, I took a Complementario route twice, adding another kilometer to the walk, but the two paths were a gift. The Galician government added an official Camino route, and left the original one – calling it the Camino Complementario route. Have no idea why and it certainly did a number on the few areas that lost the main Camino. But for me – the first choice of trail, every other person went on the main one, partly because it was slightly shorter. So suddenly, I was all alone, it was quiet, the cows were sleeping and it was a good bit further away so I lost any traffic sounds. Just birds. It was amazing. AND because no one else was walking, I saw animals. It’s a bit blurry because I was trying to telephoto – but there’s a weasel on the log above. At least 2’ long from snout to end of the tail and it seemed to feel pretty safe. It just watched me as I took a few steps, then a few more, trying to get closer. Later I saw two very small deer – don’t know what kind – leaping across a field.

This was a small town with a beautiful church – big for such a small town and town hall that used to be the tourism office. Sad for the town to lose people coming through. 

This town was the last to get a snack for another 21 k – per all the websites. Turned out there was one more, but definitely got a hot chocolate here and stopped for a bit. 

These Cruceriros were such a big marker last year on the Camino Frances. They’re just now appearing in Galicia, but they really seem incidental. I saw one on a lawn and they’d built a modern house and fence around it. Important enough to leave it, but not important enough to let it be on it’s own spot. These were said to forgive some sins and protect travelers on the Camino.

This was on the second Complementaria, a 350 year old chestnut tree. 

This site was one of the points of the ancient Camino. Notes I found about it:  It seems certain that in the privilege of the church of Lugo, granted by Alfonso III in the year 897, the reference made to San Salvador de Ramilani (Romeán) alludes to or involves that of (the above temple/church).  A sale dated in 1005, which refers to the temple of San Salvador de Romeán and its monks.

Locked, but a small hole in the door to see inside. Rebuilt for monks, but with pieces that had Moorish influences and and earlier Roman influences. 

Amazing wall.

Amazing flower! Greeted me on the outskirts of Lugo.

And Lugo. How cool is this to walk up and see?! Here’s a bit about it and tomorrow, I’ll get to explore. Lugo is the capital of the province of Lugo. The city was probably founded by Celtic inhabitants of the region and dedicated to Lugos, a pan-Celtic God of light, oaths and arts. Later conquered by Paulus Fabius Maximus and called Lucus Augusti in 13 BC on the positioning of a Roman military camp, while the Roman Empire completed the conquest, in the North, of the Iberian Peninsula.

Lugo is the only city in the world to be surrounded by completely intact Roman walls, which reach a height of 10 to 15 metres along a 2117 m circuit ringed with 71 towers. The walk along the top is continuous round the circuit and features ten gates. These 3rd-century walls are protected by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The bridge over the Minho is essential of Roman date, though many repairs over the centuries have effaced its Roman character.

The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Froilán, was built about 1129, though the actual main facade and towers date from 1769. Its elegant stalls were carved by Francisco Mouro in 1624. This cathedral enjoys the privilege of having the Blessed Sacrament perpetually exposed, a fact commemorated in the armorial bearings of the town. (I don’t know what that means that the Blessed Sacrament is exposed – I’ll figure it out for tomorrow.)