Author: RebWhite

Today was the shortest hike I’ve done, I think, and I took the day off. I walked, but all I did was listen to Rose Code, look at the fields when I remembered and spent most of my head time in England at Blechley Park where they did code-breaking. It was great and a nice time out of my focused thinking. 2.5 hours left, I’ll finish it tomorrow after I do most of my usual things.

No church sightings, no sightings of much of anything but fields and it was wonderful. Got hot again today, down to shirtsleeves for the first time in days and the flies were very busy. Didn’t have my bug spray, but I’ll carry it tomorrow. 

We compared at breakfast how many flies we had. I only had one and named him Fred the Fly because he liked to be VERY close to me at all times. Happily, he was tricked by light so I managed to get him into the bathroom when it was time to sleep. Sue said she killed all she could, swooping around the room. I asked if she sang a little song for their happy passing and she said she wasn’t that nice. 

The only place to stop today was a food truck and bless his heart. It was perfect timing and very few walked by. That group of 4 at the first table are who I’ve been spending most of my time with at meals over the past few days. 3 from Texas and Sue from England. We had dinner at the monastery last night and were giddy because it was such good food. I had a full vegetarian meal!

• 

Here’s where we came from, the mountains near Burgos. Such a clear day. 

• 

And this video is from my room/hotel. Big change from last night and I love it. Every day brings something new. This hotel is the only hotel, the only bar, the only restaurant. Very small town, says population of 50, hard to imagine. There is a church, but it’s been rebuilt and rebuilt from the medieval times. The main thing to see are the “best Roman ruins on the entire Camino.” But – 3.5 k from the town. The owner pointed out the grove of trees where it is and if I had a bike, I’d definitely go. But really don’t want to add on 7 more k in the heat. So – enjoying an afternoon in my room, listening to all the community action happening downstairs. And in the room next door, can hear every word, but it’s in Spanish so not a problem.

Here are a few overall things I’ve noticed.

I’ve eaten more tuna that I’ve eaten in my entire adult life since I learned about mercury in tuna and swordfish. They put it on almost all the salads. There was tuna soup the other night. I don’t know why, but put me down for mercury by the time I get home.

They are super conservative with light, hit the switch, go in the bathroom and you’re lucky if you’re out before the light goes off, same with corridors, stairs, etc. But – night time every town, every hotel but a few has a gazillion very large bright lights on all night long.

They don’t seem to have a water shortage, or at least even the smallest hotels have great shower pressure and hot water.

Hard surfaces are everywhere, all through towns with cobble/cement streets, hard surfaced houses, small lanes, no grass or trees to soften and very little regard for how sound carries. And it carries! Outside if anyone is outside, you know it. Inside, even the nicest hotels have thin walls, so snoring, talking, etc. a shared experience. No one complains, maybe hearing each other is a comfort?

Sue and I have marveled at the amount of beer and wine that is drunk, but we’ve never seen sloppy behavior at all as people gather outside for tapas and drinks. And they gather a lot! Very social culture, so nice to see. COVID? Must have been even harder for these communities since they clearly spend a lot of time gathering with friends and family. She also noted that because of the lack of behavior, no police. In England, she said they’re constant because the behavior of groups of people drinking is so challenging. 

Just love getting to learn, wish my Spanish was growing, mostly I’m cementing some basic words and I pull them out repeatedly!

John, one of the English guys I walked/lunched/dinnered with for a few days is a day ahead now and sent a text to Sue and me saying that this day coming up was totally boring. Not! I’m so entertained by my own head, the books I’m listening to, the art, trying to stay in an observing state – the people, sounds, sights, so much. Here’s a snippet of the art – you can see a church in the distance in the bronze cut out statue, very careful placement:

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The first taken from a bridge with me hanging over.
Then there’s the nature:

• 

Birds eating the sunflowers before they can be harvested, hope there’s some left for the farmer! Sorry about the blurry photo, they were all in motion.

• 

FORGIVE THE VIDEOING! Didn’t want to be horribly obvious so rested it on my poles.

Then the churches. Every day I think this is going to be the day for no more churches, then something different shows up. This one was great. First, it was clearly a fortress/church:

• 

This was in the town of Villalcazar de Sirga. I’m going to go back to The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: “According to tradition, ca. 1157 Castilian king Sancho III invited the Knights Templar to protect the Santiago Road. They established their base in Villalcazar and within 40 years had constructed a monumental fortified church and residence complex.”

This is the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Blanca. Most of it dates from late 12th c and early 13th c. “Legend holds that in 1157 Queen Blanca de Castillo, the wife of Sancho III, donated some of her jewels for the refurbishment of the church and its dedication to the image of the White Virgin.” 

What’s incredible to me is that the earthquake of 1755 and the war against the French in 1808 caused the loss of: fortified tower, cloister, chapter house, residences of the Knights Templar, pilgrim hospice, silos, stables, the enormous surrounding wall with it’s towers, gates, etc and the west end of the church. And look at what’s left! Unbelievable.

THEN – the miracles of the White Virgin:“An unrepentant French pilgrim could not physically enter the church until he had begged the Virgin to forgive him.”“A crippled German pilgrim who saw the ‘great number of pilgrims going to Santiago from his country’ decided to hobble along with them and although he found no cure in Compostela, he was granted his miracle in Villasirga on the return trip.“A sinner from Toulouse was sentenced by his abbot to walk to Compostela carrying with one hand a 24-pound iron weight to lay on Santiago’s altar. In Villasirga he rested it on the alter and prayed for pardon. The weight split in two, and since no one could lift either piece, he was free from his obligation.”

The best for me, personally, is they had music playing. I, absentmindedly, had forgotten to take out my earbuds when I stopped listening to my book, so the music was not really loud (!), but I could hear it. Here’s the church:

Curiosity and maybe a great idea for old folks:

• 

Maybe for old bikers?!
And then the piece de resistance, crossing this bridge (cheated and got this from a postcard) and see the next church/monastery:

• 

And, oh yeah, that’s my hotel! I can’t believe it. Seriously nice, remodeled from a monastery complete with cloister and giant church. The room is wonderful, I’m not flipping back the covers so I’m only touching the sheets, it’s quiet with a courtyard outside my window and a cloister outside my door. Did the same goofy thing with the video, but had to take photo and video of my room. 

First from my window, then out my door:

I was hoping for music and to sit in the church, but there was a video/recording that never stopped talking (in Spanish) about the Cluny reformation in the 11th c, that’s when the Royal Monastery of Saint Zoilo, began to shine. The brochure: “We know that a community of monks lived here in 948 AD. Teodomiro was the abbot’s name, who finished writing the cartulary, foundation book of the monastery in that year…in the 5th century the monastery changed its dedication from St. John the Baptist when the relics of the martyr Saint Zoilo, also name Zoil, were brought from Cordoba.” So flexible, right?

It became Benedictine in the 15th century and the “current cloister was constructed in order to impress in stone the importance of Benedictines throughout the centuries and History.” I’m impressed!

You saw the cloister in that splendid video, here’s the church. That giant box must be the reliquary for Saint Zoilo’s relics. 

• 

And, because I’m always curious about these saints, from Wikipedia: Saint Zoilus is venerated as a saint by the Catholic Church. Christian tradition states that he was a young man martyred with nineteen others at Cordoba, Spain.” I think they all became saints. There are a LOT of saints here. 

Oh, and also, there’s a Michelin starred restaurant here, so there are variations on the….meat, cheese and bread 🙂

Long windy walk, but so pretty. 6.2 miles then a town, 6.2 then a town, then 3.1 and hotel. So long quiet walks with wind blowing, but bit warmer so all my layers worked and my hands didn’t freeze. Walked over a Roman built path then climbed a hill that had a lot of people gasping a bit because of the false summits, but the view was beautiful. 

• 

• 

Continued the walk, then a bridge built in the 11c to assist pilgrims (with frequent reconstruction keeping the original design), then the Hospice of San Nicolas from the 12c. This was cool because the Italian Confraternita de San Jacobo di Compostelle di Perugia has restored it as a pilgrim refugio. And people around me took refuge! Long time, full exposure and it was the first bathroom. They were giving out coffee and wine (10:30!), cookies and cooking chicken. Just a little place, but it was a really nice outpost. 

Then, got to the hotel and read what my friends David and Linda had to say about Fromista. “Two words explain Fromista: wheat and pilgrimage.” Yep, the photo says it all. It was really rough here when they were totally dependent on the vagaries of weather and fighting locust attacks. Then, in 1773 the Canal de Castillo was built to bring water to the region and it made all the difference, actually reversed a decline. 

Here’s the church that I can see out my window, hoping I get to hear the bells all night, I love that since I’m usually awake anyway!

I know I write in hyperbole, but truly every day brings wonder. I had decided to do today without any talking or listening to books and it was so easy. The walk was shorter and easier on feet and effort. I loved the open spaces. It was colder, started at 39, and maybe got into the 50’s. I was good except for the hands. I didn’t even realize how cold they’d gotten until I had to ask someone to open my hot chocolate packet because I couldn’t make my thumbs work – but otherwise, the clothes worked and the walking was wonderful. 

• 

The first town I came to after about 6 miles was Hontanas and I realized I’d started to think in terms of medieval safety of pilgrims. This is the entry to town and I thought – what were they thinking? They’re down in a little valley, no castle and totally unprotected!

• 

 But I went looking for a cafe and hot chocolate and the church, of course.  The church was interesting because, yes 14th century and all that, but inside they had put a series of photos and descriptions of pilgrimages in Spanish and English going up the steps to the tower. Including pilgrimages of all different religions. The first scene when you walked into the church showed a photo montage of current day – saints? Not sure, but again, from many walks of life. I’ve never seen any reference to anything but Catholicism in any of the other churches. Of course, there was one figure that filled me with curiosity – have no idea – had to include her because she does look like a story is there…

• 

• 

Not happy, but definitely evocative of something and the brocade mantle is amazing. 

Then walking walking for 5 more miles after my two hot chocolates to warm up, blissfully dreaming and focusing on the breath and then see this – just out of the blue on the country road. 

• 

The main ruin was to the left to this entry arch. I walked in and the feeling was of comfort, just a ruin, a gorgeous ruin, but something was left there. Everyone walked into the space and just fell silent. So many people were helped is all I could think. First time I’ve had that feeling in all the places/churches I’ve been in so far. A giant monastery and hospital of the Order of San Anton. These are mainly from 14th and 15th c.

OK, the statue was jarring, but the piece of building behind it. 

David and Linda in The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago write this about the group that built this:     “The Order of San Anton was founded in 1093 in St. Didier de la Mothe when the hermit Anthony’s relics were taken there and a man named Guerin, whose child suffered from a burning affliction seemingly akin to leprosy, prayed to St. Anthony and the child was cured. The symptoms of St. Anthony’s fire – the burning sensation, bluish color, loss of circulation and eventually gangrene, as well as loss of mental functions – suggest ergot poisoning, caused by eating barley bread infected with a fungus generating the alkaloid ergotine. This plague, who’s onset is documented in the 10th c., reached epidemic proportions from the 11th to the 14th c. The disease could often be alleviated by change of diet (eliminating barley bread and increasing intake of wine, which dilated the veins) and vigorous exercise: e.g., pilgrimage. The hospices of San Anton credited with curative powers, sprang up along Europe’s major pilgrimage routes. The Order also treated cases of leprosy, which was likewise thoughts to be cured by pilgrimage. Well, it if it did not cure it, at least it got the presumably contagious lepers out of town.      Ergotism’s symptoms additionally resembled those of a porcine disease that the Order also attended. This may explain why San Anton is often shown accompanied by a pig. Since lepers had to announce their approach by banging 2 boards together or ringing a bell, the bell is another emblem of this saint. The Order adopted as its symbol a tau, said to resemble the mark the angel placed on the doors of Egyptian Jews to exempt them from the plague that killed firstborn sons. The Order’s members wore a blue Tau on their black habits, and they fed pilgrims white bread marked with the Tau. At its height, the Order of San Anton administered as many as 369 hospitales in Europe. The Order was disbanded in 1787.”

So cool. 

Then within another 2 miles was Castrogeriz, where I’m staying tonight. Here’s the scene at the start of the town:

• 

It has everything. The Camino sign, the town name, the church from the 11th c. And the castle for fortification above. 

Another wonderful medieval town. This seems a bit livelier, people walking around a bit. I would spend another day here if I were just adlibbing this trip. I couldn’t find the hotel at first, my GPS failing me for the first time and telling me I had miles to go yet. No!! Then walking down the street, I heard my name being called and finally looked way up and saw Sue leaning out her window on the third floor saying it’s here! That was wonderful. AND there’s an elevator, so I don’t have to carry my bags up 3 flights.

I think I’m going to have my second night in Spain that’s quiet with the window open and just birdsong in the morning. 15 miles tomorrow, but it’s going to be tempting to go slowly leaving this wonderful town. Here’s the scene outside my window.

• 

Such an easy day, it was almost disconcerting. It was supposed to be raining all morning, there were fewer miles, and we were getting picked up by a shuttle at 3, so there was no reason to sprint out. So I didn’t! I actually slept on and off, but really woke up at 7:30. Incredible. Ate a full breakfast with Sue, then we both set off, though at different times. 

Didn’t go into a single church today, but couldn’t resist a few photos. I just continue to be amazed and delight in these ancient small quiet towns. It’s horrible that they are all shrinking in population, but oh, they’re pretty to walk through. Loved the fountain in this town – the faces looked like the carver had a sense of humor!

• 

This last one is a building that’s now a home, but was the original (with update fix ups) of a hostel/hospital for pilgrims from the 13th c. 

• 

• 

Couldn’t resist this little hermitage with the bells ringing from the church at the top:

And the art along the way:

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The one two above is the FIRST I’ve seen of a woman depicted as a pilgrim and there were a lot of them. 
Finally a brief video of the terrain I was seeing. I’m in the Meseta now, 7 days of walking through flatlands. If it’s like today, I don’t know why people think it’s such a flat meditative walk because of it’s lack of interest. It’s beautiful. And meditative!

Oh, so nice to wake up at whatever and think, I don’t have to get up and breakfast isn’t until 8! I didn’t even do all the things I try to do before leaving, just lay in bed dozing, so so nice. 

I dropped off laundry, big advantage of having an overnight. Met Sue at breakfast, someone I’ve been with a bit over the last few days. She said she actually found a laundromat (I’d read there weren’t any), but couldn’t figure out how to get it all done. She ended up hand washing and was hoping to figure out the dryers. I was feeling lucky that I didn’t know that was an option, until I was handed my bag and realized they’d forgotten to do the laundry. Hmmm. Now seriously crossing my fingers that they can do it and get it back to me by 9 latest. Then will pack and go. That gives me a bit of a tight schedule to walk and get there by the transfer that takes me to my hotel, but hard to be upset about the possibility of another later morning. Especially since it’s supposed to be raining all day tomorrow, so why not go when it’s a bit lighter and warmer?

I didn’t think I would walk much today, but Burgos turns out to be beautiful. I’d read in my great book that I could spend 6 hours in the cathedral alone. It turned out to have a QR code (sp?) that I could download so that I had an English audio tour. But it took forever, went back to the hotel to see if WI-FI could get it done, nope. Then gave up and was just going back and realized I’d hit a great cel zone a few blocks away and just stopped on the sidewalk and waited until it downloaded. It was worth the time. 

• 

I couldn’t get a photo or video that remotely grasped the immensity of this church. David M Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davison who wrote The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago continue to be my go-to people for learning. Dad would give up because I really don’t care that much about Gothic vs all the other styles, but I’m amazed at the ages of these things. This building started in 1221, the first mass held in 1230, the ceiling vaults closed in 1243. Incredible. Additions and adorning continued for the next 500 years. I liked this: “Architects of large medieval churches strove to affect worshipers with a sense of wonder and awe. In Burgos they exceeded their expectations. For openers, think of the unprecedented size of this church. In the 13th c it stood not among today’s multistory (but not that multi story – 5?) offices, but instead rose seemingly miraculously from amid the 1 and 2 story houses that constituted the originality of medieval towns. If you can, picture Borgos’ urban landscape as a plain from which enormous pinnacles, the spires of her churches, soared skyward as visible links with heaven.”

• 

• 

That’s what I think about when I sit in these churches, what people thought as they looked at them. What hopes and dreams and security the churches offered. Of course there were others that were paying tribute to help pay for them, but still. The other thing I wonder is who was actually allowed to be in these churches? Everyone? Hierarchy in seating? How often did they come? I’d love to know some of the personal history, rather than just architectural history. Though it is amazing because they give attribute to the specific builders, painters, sculptors. These were serious craftsmen who were recognized as artists. 

Here’s a bit of what I was able to capture, nothing compared to the capacity. There was a wedding going on in a whole other giant piece of the cathedral that was packed and closed. That’s where mass is held. If I were here during a high mass with music, I’d definitely go, it would sound incredible. You can get a sense of the sound from the bells in the dizzying video of a bit of the cathedral. 

That gorgeous staircase was so that tradespeople and goods could come in without going through the rest of the cathedral. Crazy. 

• 

• 

Then I just started walking, starting with circumnavigating the cathedral. All the streets are pretty, clean, and there’s a walk along the river I came into town on that goes for miles. Old buildings taken care of, really. Glad I got the extra day!

Just got the call that they can do the laundry! Yay! Off to dinner with Fiona,  Merv and Sue. Think I will definitely have to call Fiona and Merv if I ever go to Dublin. I’ll be sorry to see them go.
PS –  This was Franco’s base – definitely a rough piece of Burgos’ history. 

• 

Catedral  de Burgos at night. It was spectacular to see so many people out, having fun and the city was as beautiful at night as it was during the day.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Spectacular sunrise, I was so lucky to be able to see it. I left early, there was no breakfast – well it was a generous bag, but I’d only taken the OJ and banana, so left by 7:25. I thought that was late, but it was still dark out. Sunrise later and heavy clouds. I turned back and looked at the little town, dark clouds with a hint of dark purple and red over the bell tower and a crescent moon above. So pretty.

Then entered a wooded area and it was really dark, but I was moving quickly since others were also starting and chatting. I do love the quiet, so moved ahead hoping not to trip and then it started lightening, such a cool way to start the day.

No pictures of churches today. Didn’t go into any, the little towns that I went through either had churches too far to go to – not taking any extra steps – or were closed. I thought I’d connect with the people I’d been having dinner and some hiking with, but my timing was off.

Most towns, no matter how small, have their own way of incorporating the Camino. After all, they all exist because of the Camino. Loved this sign – the plate-like display is of the town with numbers for significant things. Tiny town.

• 

In case you weren’t sure who lived in this barn:

• 

Sun hitting the fields:

• 

Then I hit Burgos. Back to one of my days where I missed on the food. By the time I checked in and got a shower, lunch time was over. Most places were just doing coffee or drinks. A few had little snacks, but they looked so unappealing. The place that looked great – had a Michelin sign – I couldn’t figure out how to order. Really.  It’s intimidating when there’s clearly a way to do things and you have no idea what it is or how to get someone’s attention to order.

I’m in Burgos which is a major town and tons of people out on the town, just like in Logrono and very few – didn’t see any – peregrinos. I’d thought I’d connect with John, Sean, and Sue for dinner, but cleverly forgot to get any of their phone numbers. I’m so used to seeing everyone I’ve met or seen on the trail at night – it’s different in a big town. So no English and I was tired and hungry and gave up. Finally found a bakery and got two pastries and came back to the room. So happy to have a quiet clean room for two nights. Decided I’d relish that and tackle food again tomorrow.

Plus tomorrow night will be my last night with Fiona and Merv who’ve taken a different pace the last few days. So – one more night with friends and then – it really will be a new Camino.

Today felt like a calmer day. As I started, within a block, I sat to take a rock out of my shoe and saw this sign:

Honestly, it was early, I was just walking and not noticing. I would have missed the sign if I hadn’t sat down. So – I counted my steps and looked back and saw this:

Amazing. Such an intense face. I don’t know who she is or what is being conveyed, but it was striking. The next mural was this:

Refugees? Franco’s regime? Women’s plight the world over? I don’t know.

All along the Camino have been art installations, photos in the fields, hanging from trees, murals with “Art Installe” (I think). Maybe it’s all year, maybe it’s September, I don’t know. But it always adds a note of something more. OK – just found it online for Belorado. Street artists cover Spanish village in murals celebrating local women. “Village of Belorado has a very unique and peculiar tradition – the game of bolo beliforiano, a type of bowling played exclusively by women. And to celebrate that tradition, the local cultural organization decided to paint the facades of eight houses.” This was in 2019, the photos look amazing, I just saw these two.

The terrain has changed and is beautiful in a new way. Here’s the terrain and here’s me walking with the sun coming up behind me.

This tiny town didn’t have anywhere to stop, but I loved the sign on the fountain and the church behind it with a peregrino wind vane.

• 

• 

I walked a lot of the way alone, then had a morning snack with John and then caught up with him and Sue to walk the rest of the way into San Juan de Ortega. Nice to have the chat/distraction for the last couple of miles.

When having the snack before John joined, I started reading Dr. Edith Eva’s book, The Choice recommended by Fiona. Incredible. I told John it was a good thing he came along because I could have just sat there for the next hour. So now I have great books on audio and on Kindle. 

On the way, we passed a memorial to the 300 people killed by the Franco regime out of Burgos, 16 miles (as we walk it) from here. One of the highest concentration of murders in Spain during that period. 

Near the end when we were getting tired, a guy was playing music, dancing and selling watermelon for whatever anyone wanted to donate, but he was giving it out whether people gave or not. Just as good as that melon from the olive grove a few days back and a really nice pick up to keep you going. Plus he was having so much fun, people would start to walk by and then would stop and sit and just be captivated. And he was probably in his 50’s!

San Juan de Ortega may be the calmest prettiest plaza and church yet. It’s quiet, you can hear the tractor still going, a few murmurs, I’m sitting on a bench in front of the town fountain, water for pilgrims. I also was able to sit for about half the pilgrim mass the priest was giving. He had a great face and was able to get up and down, so doing ok in this tiny town of 18. All the pilgrims went up for communion. I just enjoy the ambience and knowing the comfort the churches in this area have been bringing to at least some of the people for 1000 years.

All one building, this is where we had lunch and dinner. At dinner I tried blood pudding, morcellas (something like that). It was actually really good. But I could only try it. I’m eating everything in front of me and the more I can put in front of me the better. Pork chops and sausage (really? Haven’t had either in years), salad and bread. The ubiquitous bread. Then cheese with honey, a local desert. Pot of cold cheese – really more like yoghurt, but thicker consistency and no sugar then pour honey over.

• 

• 

This plaza is the scene of San Juan’s festival in the spring. He was Santo Domingo’s protege, following his footsteps building bridges, roads and helping pilgrims. He’s the saint for surveyors and architects and they have a festival to celebrate. Think it’s probably more lively than an American group of surveyors and architects. But maybe not!

Here’s the little chapel next to the big church where they had the service. Even little chapels are awfully nice. That’s San Juan’s coffin and relics within (1080-1163). They’ve actually examined them several times, amazing. He lived til he was 83!

Such a fun day. Isn’t this beautiful? Morning shot of Santo Domingo’s first bridge from the 11th century. It’s clearly been updated, cared for and strengthened, but it’s still his bridge. 

I walked alone, with only one conversation at a cafe. I’d seen this guy the day before as we left early from Najera. He was slightly ahead of me and he knelt down when we hit the dirt path from the tarmac, put his hand on the ground and clearly was saying a prayer. I quietly went by him and we leapfrogged intermittently through the day. Today, he caught up at the cafe for breakfast. We talked about the churches we passed and he said he never went in. I asked if he was Catholic (similar to the guy in The Way) and he said no, this is my religion and something else – German, missed what he was saying in English. He pointed to his shirt and the image there. I thought, ok, maybe he’s a Satanist. I know they care for the earth and a lot of positive things as well as a few different directions. We talked a bit more and actually this guy was Celtic. Passionate about it. He said there are a few Celts in Germany, lot more in France. He wanted to talk a lot about it, but happily, he also had to smoke and I was done with my sandwich and hot chocolate so we went our separate ways. 

Long walk just because of cumulative tiredness, I think. Listened to couple podcasts and books as well as quiet time. Now the vineyards are all gone and wheat and sunflowers. The sunflowers look spooky, but they’re waiting until they’ve dried more to harvest. 

Then I went off the schedule. Last night, I’d talked to a couple of people at my hotel who had become part of the regulars either having a drink after the walk or connecting for dinner. I asked if they’d have any interest in going in a taxi to see San Millan Monasteries, Yuso and Suso. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage sight and looked pretty amazing. They said yes. The owners of our hotel who were completely wonderful got very enthusiastic and in a torrent of Spanish worked with me to set up a taxi in the next town to take us, wait, and bring us back. I was dizzy by the end and we were all laughing, but it worked!

From Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: “According to his biographers San Braulio, San Millan was born in 473 in the village of Berceo (went through it today). As a young shepherd he heard God’s call and had a vision in which his zither became a pen and the mountainous landscape of the Sierra de la Demanda to the south became God’s beautiful kingdom. He was tutored by San Felice and after a brief stint as a priest during which he gave away most of his church’s assets, he retired to a cave to be a hermit. His fame as a holy man spread and the cave soon became a pilgrimage site where Millan worked many miracles, multiplying bread to feed the crowds of worshippers, exorcising demons and more. He died at the age of 101 and was buried.”

San Millan is very important to Spain and there are two monasteries, one, Susa (higher) was where his cave was and the lower one, Yusa, is where the larger monastery was built when the upper one couldn’t handle the crowd capacity. There are still Augustinian monks practicing there, continuing the work with the ancient texts. That’s enough, I’ll just give a couple of pictures, but the three of us, Sean, Sue and I thought it was well worth the death defying taxi ride to go there 🙂 

Suso, the upper one built between 6th and 11th centuries, with his tomb from the second half of the 12th century.

His actual cave is still there, but up even higher and blocked to visitors.

Yuso is below. The king wanted to move San Millan’s remains to Najera. They loaded his remains on a cart and started out. The oxen which were pulling the cart stopped in the valley as if the Saint’s remains did not want to abandon it, so the monastery of Yuso was constructed on the spot (per the brochure). Built between 16th and 18th centuries by the Benedictine abbots on the ruins of the 10-11th c Romanesque monastery.

I would not want to look up at that giant painting of San Millan defeating the Moors – mythology of him appearing on a horse just as Santiago did in time to save the Christians. 

Then back to Belorado. A town either already struggling or really hit by COVID. There were only 2 restaurants that were available. Went to one for lunch before the monasteries, then the other for dinner. They started at 7:30 and luckily Sean and John had reservations so Sue and I joined them and Fiona, Merv, Hope and Steve ate at another table, then we joined up after others left. So interesting how people come and go. I’ll have one more dinner with Fiona and Merv in Burgos, then they’re gone – doing different days to get there. Sue and I are mostly on the same schedule and then John and Sean are jumping ahead after Burgos. Then maybe I’ll meet all new people – or maybe I’ll be alone till Rick comes. But it’s been fun with this crew. 

Today was wonderful all day long – including the hotel and food! The walks have all been wonderful, but there’s been mixed outcomes with a couple of the hotels. But today I got started early, walked alone the whole time with one cafe stop and got here by 1:15. Early!

Then the owner of the hotel, an old watermill, was completely wonderful. No English, but articulate so that I could get by. So so nice. She said she could do a load of laundry when I asked about doing it somewhere. 7E for one load. Yes – I’ll do it! That load I did never dried, especially the socks, ach, mildew ripe.

Then she gave me a restaurant name for the menu el dia – the 3 course meal that I had twice and I was in time for it. Finally, she said she does a dinner here and it could be at 7:15. Really?!! That’s amazing. And I’m hungry enough that I want both lunch and dinner today. Actually, I always want more food, though am just fine. I finished my almonds and peanut M&Ms today. That’s been my back up for 2 weeks, will have to resupply if I can find somewhere. Here’s my treat today:

This is a local treat, called the little hanging man. It’s from a Saint Domingo legend that occurred here. A young man and his parents were on the Camino in the 1200’s (?) and a young girl in the inn they stayed in fell in love with the young man but he was indifferent. To get revenge, she hid a silver cup in his bag.

She then turned him in to the authorities. The penalty for theft at the time was death by hanging. When his parents left to go to Santiago de Compostela, they went to see their hanged son and when they reached the place where he was, they heard the son’s voice announcing that Santo Domingo de la Calzada had preserved his life. They immediately went to the house of the City Mayor and told him the prodigy.

Incredulous, the mayor replied that their son was as alive as the rooster and the chicken that he was preparing to eat. At that precise moment, the rooster and the chicken jumping from the plate and began to sing.

From that day on, there have been chickens at the cathedral. Until today! Look in the lower left of this photo and you can see the chicken in the coop, just the red head shows up – it’s probably really nice behind this area. Above the coop is a piece of the gibbet!

This church was great, not because of the church, though it’s huge/amazing, but because of the saint that it’s named for –  Saint Gregorio.

Saint Gregorio was born in 1019 as Dominic Garcia. He wanted to be a monk, but they told him he wasn’t smart enough for the studying. So he left to be a hermit in the forest near where the town is now. His sole concern was to make life better for pilgrims. To that end, he cleared several kilometers of very thick briars. According to legend, he was told by the owner that he could clear what he wanted for the pilgrims, but only as much as he could do in one day. So he cleared 5 k in one day. Another version is that with his scythe, he hit one tree and the others miraculously fell down. Supposedly a part of his scythe is now covered with silver and hanging above his burial memorial. I couldn’t find it, but here’s the memorial and if you look at the top, there are chains from Christians that he saved from the Moors. 
He also built the first bridge in the town and opened travel for people on the Camino and took away the bandits that ferried people. 

The town grew from where he was buried in the middle of the Camino path in this area. The cathedral was raised over his grave and the houses gathered. Saint Gregorio of the Calzada, or Causeway. 
More great symbols of pilgrims, just love coming upon these. They’re throughout the cathedrals, towns and it’s interesting to see each town’s presentation.

• 

• 

I loved today’s walk – again. Completely alone this time, not even a brief conversation except in my head. And I even managed to quiet that down. I didn’t sleep at all last night, but when I get going in the cool morning and the farms stretch out in front of me, I just can’t believe I’m getting to do this. There was cloud cover, perfect temperature, a bit of a breeze and grapes to snack on – just one bunch! – in the morning. Then vineyards changed to wheat fields and the farmers were out in their tractors. It was beautiful with the Camino stretching out in front and a few pilgrims in front and back.