Author: RebWhite

I know I write in hyperbole, but truly every day brings wonder. I had decided to do today without any talking or listening to books and it was so easy. The walk was shorter and easier on feet and effort. I loved the open spaces. It was colder, started at 39, and maybe got into the 50’s. I was good except for the hands. I didn’t even realize how cold they’d gotten until I had to ask someone to open my hot chocolate packet because I couldn’t make my thumbs work – but otherwise, the clothes worked and the walking was wonderful. 

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The first town I came to after about 6 miles was Hontanas and I realized I’d started to think in terms of medieval safety of pilgrims. This is the entry to town and I thought – what were they thinking? They’re down in a little valley, no castle and totally unprotected!

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 But I went looking for a cafe and hot chocolate and the church, of course.  The church was interesting because, yes 14th century and all that, but inside they had put a series of photos and descriptions of pilgrimages in Spanish and English going up the steps to the tower. Including pilgrimages of all different religions. The first scene when you walked into the church showed a photo montage of current day – saints? Not sure, but again, from many walks of life. I’ve never seen any reference to anything but Catholicism in any of the other churches. Of course, there was one figure that filled me with curiosity – have no idea – had to include her because she does look like a story is there…

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Not happy, but definitely evocative of something and the brocade mantle is amazing. 

Then walking walking for 5 more miles after my two hot chocolates to warm up, blissfully dreaming and focusing on the breath and then see this – just out of the blue on the country road. 

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The main ruin was to the left to this entry arch. I walked in and the feeling was of comfort, just a ruin, a gorgeous ruin, but something was left there. Everyone walked into the space and just fell silent. So many people were helped is all I could think. First time I’ve had that feeling in all the places/churches I’ve been in so far. A giant monastery and hospital of the Order of San Anton. These are mainly from 14th and 15th c.

OK, the statue was jarring, but the piece of building behind it. 

David and Linda in The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago write this about the group that built this:     “The Order of San Anton was founded in 1093 in St. Didier de la Mothe when the hermit Anthony’s relics were taken there and a man named Guerin, whose child suffered from a burning affliction seemingly akin to leprosy, prayed to St. Anthony and the child was cured. The symptoms of St. Anthony’s fire – the burning sensation, bluish color, loss of circulation and eventually gangrene, as well as loss of mental functions – suggest ergot poisoning, caused by eating barley bread infected with a fungus generating the alkaloid ergotine. This plague, who’s onset is documented in the 10th c., reached epidemic proportions from the 11th to the 14th c. The disease could often be alleviated by change of diet (eliminating barley bread and increasing intake of wine, which dilated the veins) and vigorous exercise: e.g., pilgrimage. The hospices of San Anton credited with curative powers, sprang up along Europe’s major pilgrimage routes. The Order also treated cases of leprosy, which was likewise thoughts to be cured by pilgrimage. Well, it if it did not cure it, at least it got the presumably contagious lepers out of town.      Ergotism’s symptoms additionally resembled those of a porcine disease that the Order also attended. This may explain why San Anton is often shown accompanied by a pig. Since lepers had to announce their approach by banging 2 boards together or ringing a bell, the bell is another emblem of this saint. The Order adopted as its symbol a tau, said to resemble the mark the angel placed on the doors of Egyptian Jews to exempt them from the plague that killed firstborn sons. The Order’s members wore a blue Tau on their black habits, and they fed pilgrims white bread marked with the Tau. At its height, the Order of San Anton administered as many as 369 hospitales in Europe. The Order was disbanded in 1787.”

So cool. 

Then within another 2 miles was Castrogeriz, where I’m staying tonight. Here’s the scene at the start of the town:

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It has everything. The Camino sign, the town name, the church from the 11th c. And the castle for fortification above. 

Another wonderful medieval town. This seems a bit livelier, people walking around a bit. I would spend another day here if I were just adlibbing this trip. I couldn’t find the hotel at first, my GPS failing me for the first time and telling me I had miles to go yet. No!! Then walking down the street, I heard my name being called and finally looked way up and saw Sue leaning out her window on the third floor saying it’s here! That was wonderful. AND there’s an elevator, so I don’t have to carry my bags up 3 flights.

I think I’m going to have my second night in Spain that’s quiet with the window open and just birdsong in the morning. 15 miles tomorrow, but it’s going to be tempting to go slowly leaving this wonderful town. Here’s the scene outside my window.

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Such an easy day, it was almost disconcerting. It was supposed to be raining all morning, there were fewer miles, and we were getting picked up by a shuttle at 3, so there was no reason to sprint out. So I didn’t! I actually slept on and off, but really woke up at 7:30. Incredible. Ate a full breakfast with Sue, then we both set off, though at different times. 

Didn’t go into a single church today, but couldn’t resist a few photos. I just continue to be amazed and delight in these ancient small quiet towns. It’s horrible that they are all shrinking in population, but oh, they’re pretty to walk through. Loved the fountain in this town – the faces looked like the carver had a sense of humor!

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This last one is a building that’s now a home, but was the original (with update fix ups) of a hostel/hospital for pilgrims from the 13th c. 

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Couldn’t resist this little hermitage with the bells ringing from the church at the top:

And the art along the way:

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The one two above is the FIRST I’ve seen of a woman depicted as a pilgrim and there were a lot of them. 
Finally a brief video of the terrain I was seeing. I’m in the Meseta now, 7 days of walking through flatlands. If it’s like today, I don’t know why people think it’s such a flat meditative walk because of it’s lack of interest. It’s beautiful. And meditative!

Oh, so nice to wake up at whatever and think, I don’t have to get up and breakfast isn’t until 8! I didn’t even do all the things I try to do before leaving, just lay in bed dozing, so so nice. 

I dropped off laundry, big advantage of having an overnight. Met Sue at breakfast, someone I’ve been with a bit over the last few days. She said she actually found a laundromat (I’d read there weren’t any), but couldn’t figure out how to get it all done. She ended up hand washing and was hoping to figure out the dryers. I was feeling lucky that I didn’t know that was an option, until I was handed my bag and realized they’d forgotten to do the laundry. Hmmm. Now seriously crossing my fingers that they can do it and get it back to me by 9 latest. Then will pack and go. That gives me a bit of a tight schedule to walk and get there by the transfer that takes me to my hotel, but hard to be upset about the possibility of another later morning. Especially since it’s supposed to be raining all day tomorrow, so why not go when it’s a bit lighter and warmer?

I didn’t think I would walk much today, but Burgos turns out to be beautiful. I’d read in my great book that I could spend 6 hours in the cathedral alone. It turned out to have a QR code (sp?) that I could download so that I had an English audio tour. But it took forever, went back to the hotel to see if WI-FI could get it done, nope. Then gave up and was just going back and realized I’d hit a great cel zone a few blocks away and just stopped on the sidewalk and waited until it downloaded. It was worth the time. 

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I couldn’t get a photo or video that remotely grasped the immensity of this church. David M Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davison who wrote The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago continue to be my go-to people for learning. Dad would give up because I really don’t care that much about Gothic vs all the other styles, but I’m amazed at the ages of these things. This building started in 1221, the first mass held in 1230, the ceiling vaults closed in 1243. Incredible. Additions and adorning continued for the next 500 years. I liked this: “Architects of large medieval churches strove to affect worshipers with a sense of wonder and awe. In Burgos they exceeded their expectations. For openers, think of the unprecedented size of this church. In the 13th c it stood not among today’s multistory (but not that multi story – 5?) offices, but instead rose seemingly miraculously from amid the 1 and 2 story houses that constituted the originality of medieval towns. If you can, picture Borgos’ urban landscape as a plain from which enormous pinnacles, the spires of her churches, soared skyward as visible links with heaven.”

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That’s what I think about when I sit in these churches, what people thought as they looked at them. What hopes and dreams and security the churches offered. Of course there were others that were paying tribute to help pay for them, but still. The other thing I wonder is who was actually allowed to be in these churches? Everyone? Hierarchy in seating? How often did they come? I’d love to know some of the personal history, rather than just architectural history. Though it is amazing because they give attribute to the specific builders, painters, sculptors. These were serious craftsmen who were recognized as artists. 

Here’s a bit of what I was able to capture, nothing compared to the capacity. There was a wedding going on in a whole other giant piece of the cathedral that was packed and closed. That’s where mass is held. If I were here during a high mass with music, I’d definitely go, it would sound incredible. You can get a sense of the sound from the bells in the dizzying video of a bit of the cathedral. 

That gorgeous staircase was so that tradespeople and goods could come in without going through the rest of the cathedral. Crazy. 

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Then I just started walking, starting with circumnavigating the cathedral. All the streets are pretty, clean, and there’s a walk along the river I came into town on that goes for miles. Old buildings taken care of, really. Glad I got the extra day!

Just got the call that they can do the laundry! Yay! Off to dinner with Fiona,  Merv and Sue. Think I will definitely have to call Fiona and Merv if I ever go to Dublin. I’ll be sorry to see them go.
PS –  This was Franco’s base – definitely a rough piece of Burgos’ history. 

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Catedral  de Burgos at night. It was spectacular to see so many people out, having fun and the city was as beautiful at night as it was during the day.

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Spectacular sunrise, I was so lucky to be able to see it. I left early, there was no breakfast – well it was a generous bag, but I’d only taken the OJ and banana, so left by 7:25. I thought that was late, but it was still dark out. Sunrise later and heavy clouds. I turned back and looked at the little town, dark clouds with a hint of dark purple and red over the bell tower and a crescent moon above. So pretty.

Then entered a wooded area and it was really dark, but I was moving quickly since others were also starting and chatting. I do love the quiet, so moved ahead hoping not to trip and then it started lightening, such a cool way to start the day.

No pictures of churches today. Didn’t go into any, the little towns that I went through either had churches too far to go to – not taking any extra steps – or were closed. I thought I’d connect with the people I’d been having dinner and some hiking with, but my timing was off.

Most towns, no matter how small, have their own way of incorporating the Camino. After all, they all exist because of the Camino. Loved this sign – the plate-like display is of the town with numbers for significant things. Tiny town.

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In case you weren’t sure who lived in this barn:

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Sun hitting the fields:

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Then I hit Burgos. Back to one of my days where I missed on the food. By the time I checked in and got a shower, lunch time was over. Most places were just doing coffee or drinks. A few had little snacks, but they looked so unappealing. The place that looked great – had a Michelin sign – I couldn’t figure out how to order. Really.  It’s intimidating when there’s clearly a way to do things and you have no idea what it is or how to get someone’s attention to order.

I’m in Burgos which is a major town and tons of people out on the town, just like in Logrono and very few – didn’t see any – peregrinos. I’d thought I’d connect with John, Sean, and Sue for dinner, but cleverly forgot to get any of their phone numbers. I’m so used to seeing everyone I’ve met or seen on the trail at night – it’s different in a big town. So no English and I was tired and hungry and gave up. Finally found a bakery and got two pastries and came back to the room. So happy to have a quiet clean room for two nights. Decided I’d relish that and tackle food again tomorrow.

Plus tomorrow night will be my last night with Fiona and Merv who’ve taken a different pace the last few days. So – one more night with friends and then – it really will be a new Camino.

Today felt like a calmer day. As I started, within a block, I sat to take a rock out of my shoe and saw this sign:

Honestly, it was early, I was just walking and not noticing. I would have missed the sign if I hadn’t sat down. So – I counted my steps and looked back and saw this:

Amazing. Such an intense face. I don’t know who she is or what is being conveyed, but it was striking. The next mural was this:

Refugees? Franco’s regime? Women’s plight the world over? I don’t know.

All along the Camino have been art installations, photos in the fields, hanging from trees, murals with “Art Installe” (I think). Maybe it’s all year, maybe it’s September, I don’t know. But it always adds a note of something more. OK – just found it online for Belorado. Street artists cover Spanish village in murals celebrating local women. “Village of Belorado has a very unique and peculiar tradition – the game of bolo beliforiano, a type of bowling played exclusively by women. And to celebrate that tradition, the local cultural organization decided to paint the facades of eight houses.” This was in 2019, the photos look amazing, I just saw these two.

The terrain has changed and is beautiful in a new way. Here’s the terrain and here’s me walking with the sun coming up behind me.

This tiny town didn’t have anywhere to stop, but I loved the sign on the fountain and the church behind it with a peregrino wind vane.

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I walked a lot of the way alone, then had a morning snack with John and then caught up with him and Sue to walk the rest of the way into San Juan de Ortega. Nice to have the chat/distraction for the last couple of miles.

When having the snack before John joined, I started reading Dr. Edith Eva’s book, The Choice recommended by Fiona. Incredible. I told John it was a good thing he came along because I could have just sat there for the next hour. So now I have great books on audio and on Kindle. 

On the way, we passed a memorial to the 300 people killed by the Franco regime out of Burgos, 16 miles (as we walk it) from here. One of the highest concentration of murders in Spain during that period. 

Near the end when we were getting tired, a guy was playing music, dancing and selling watermelon for whatever anyone wanted to donate, but he was giving it out whether people gave or not. Just as good as that melon from the olive grove a few days back and a really nice pick up to keep you going. Plus he was having so much fun, people would start to walk by and then would stop and sit and just be captivated. And he was probably in his 50’s!

San Juan de Ortega may be the calmest prettiest plaza and church yet. It’s quiet, you can hear the tractor still going, a few murmurs, I’m sitting on a bench in front of the town fountain, water for pilgrims. I also was able to sit for about half the pilgrim mass the priest was giving. He had a great face and was able to get up and down, so doing ok in this tiny town of 18. All the pilgrims went up for communion. I just enjoy the ambience and knowing the comfort the churches in this area have been bringing to at least some of the people for 1000 years.

All one building, this is where we had lunch and dinner. At dinner I tried blood pudding, morcellas (something like that). It was actually really good. But I could only try it. I’m eating everything in front of me and the more I can put in front of me the better. Pork chops and sausage (really? Haven’t had either in years), salad and bread. The ubiquitous bread. Then cheese with honey, a local desert. Pot of cold cheese – really more like yoghurt, but thicker consistency and no sugar then pour honey over.

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This plaza is the scene of San Juan’s festival in the spring. He was Santo Domingo’s protege, following his footsteps building bridges, roads and helping pilgrims. He’s the saint for surveyors and architects and they have a festival to celebrate. Think it’s probably more lively than an American group of surveyors and architects. But maybe not!

Here’s the little chapel next to the big church where they had the service. Even little chapels are awfully nice. That’s San Juan’s coffin and relics within (1080-1163). They’ve actually examined them several times, amazing. He lived til he was 83!

Such a fun day. Isn’t this beautiful? Morning shot of Santo Domingo’s first bridge from the 11th century. It’s clearly been updated, cared for and strengthened, but it’s still his bridge. 

I walked alone, with only one conversation at a cafe. I’d seen this guy the day before as we left early from Najera. He was slightly ahead of me and he knelt down when we hit the dirt path from the tarmac, put his hand on the ground and clearly was saying a prayer. I quietly went by him and we leapfrogged intermittently through the day. Today, he caught up at the cafe for breakfast. We talked about the churches we passed and he said he never went in. I asked if he was Catholic (similar to the guy in The Way) and he said no, this is my religion and something else – German, missed what he was saying in English. He pointed to his shirt and the image there. I thought, ok, maybe he’s a Satanist. I know they care for the earth and a lot of positive things as well as a few different directions. We talked a bit more and actually this guy was Celtic. Passionate about it. He said there are a few Celts in Germany, lot more in France. He wanted to talk a lot about it, but happily, he also had to smoke and I was done with my sandwich and hot chocolate so we went our separate ways. 

Long walk just because of cumulative tiredness, I think. Listened to couple podcasts and books as well as quiet time. Now the vineyards are all gone and wheat and sunflowers. The sunflowers look spooky, but they’re waiting until they’ve dried more to harvest. 

Then I went off the schedule. Last night, I’d talked to a couple of people at my hotel who had become part of the regulars either having a drink after the walk or connecting for dinner. I asked if they’d have any interest in going in a taxi to see San Millan Monasteries, Yuso and Suso. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage sight and looked pretty amazing. They said yes. The owners of our hotel who were completely wonderful got very enthusiastic and in a torrent of Spanish worked with me to set up a taxi in the next town to take us, wait, and bring us back. I was dizzy by the end and we were all laughing, but it worked!

From Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: “According to his biographers San Braulio, San Millan was born in 473 in the village of Berceo (went through it today). As a young shepherd he heard God’s call and had a vision in which his zither became a pen and the mountainous landscape of the Sierra de la Demanda to the south became God’s beautiful kingdom. He was tutored by San Felice and after a brief stint as a priest during which he gave away most of his church’s assets, he retired to a cave to be a hermit. His fame as a holy man spread and the cave soon became a pilgrimage site where Millan worked many miracles, multiplying bread to feed the crowds of worshippers, exorcising demons and more. He died at the age of 101 and was buried.”

San Millan is very important to Spain and there are two monasteries, one, Susa (higher) was where his cave was and the lower one, Yusa, is where the larger monastery was built when the upper one couldn’t handle the crowd capacity. There are still Augustinian monks practicing there, continuing the work with the ancient texts. That’s enough, I’ll just give a couple of pictures, but the three of us, Sean, Sue and I thought it was well worth the death defying taxi ride to go there 🙂 

Suso, the upper one built between 6th and 11th centuries, with his tomb from the second half of the 12th century.

His actual cave is still there, but up even higher and blocked to visitors.

Yuso is below. The king wanted to move San Millan’s remains to Najera. They loaded his remains on a cart and started out. The oxen which were pulling the cart stopped in the valley as if the Saint’s remains did not want to abandon it, so the monastery of Yuso was constructed on the spot (per the brochure). Built between 16th and 18th centuries by the Benedictine abbots on the ruins of the 10-11th c Romanesque monastery.

I would not want to look up at that giant painting of San Millan defeating the Moors – mythology of him appearing on a horse just as Santiago did in time to save the Christians. 

Then back to Belorado. A town either already struggling or really hit by COVID. There were only 2 restaurants that were available. Went to one for lunch before the monasteries, then the other for dinner. They started at 7:30 and luckily Sean and John had reservations so Sue and I joined them and Fiona, Merv, Hope and Steve ate at another table, then we joined up after others left. So interesting how people come and go. I’ll have one more dinner with Fiona and Merv in Burgos, then they’re gone – doing different days to get there. Sue and I are mostly on the same schedule and then John and Sean are jumping ahead after Burgos. Then maybe I’ll meet all new people – or maybe I’ll be alone till Rick comes. But it’s been fun with this crew. 

Today was wonderful all day long – including the hotel and food! The walks have all been wonderful, but there’s been mixed outcomes with a couple of the hotels. But today I got started early, walked alone the whole time with one cafe stop and got here by 1:15. Early!

Then the owner of the hotel, an old watermill, was completely wonderful. No English, but articulate so that I could get by. So so nice. She said she could do a load of laundry when I asked about doing it somewhere. 7E for one load. Yes – I’ll do it! That load I did never dried, especially the socks, ach, mildew ripe.

Then she gave me a restaurant name for the menu el dia – the 3 course meal that I had twice and I was in time for it. Finally, she said she does a dinner here and it could be at 7:15. Really?!! That’s amazing. And I’m hungry enough that I want both lunch and dinner today. Actually, I always want more food, though am just fine. I finished my almonds and peanut M&Ms today. That’s been my back up for 2 weeks, will have to resupply if I can find somewhere. Here’s my treat today:

This is a local treat, called the little hanging man. It’s from a Saint Domingo legend that occurred here. A young man and his parents were on the Camino in the 1200’s (?) and a young girl in the inn they stayed in fell in love with the young man but he was indifferent. To get revenge, she hid a silver cup in his bag.

She then turned him in to the authorities. The penalty for theft at the time was death by hanging. When his parents left to go to Santiago de Compostela, they went to see their hanged son and when they reached the place where he was, they heard the son’s voice announcing that Santo Domingo de la Calzada had preserved his life. They immediately went to the house of the City Mayor and told him the prodigy.

Incredulous, the mayor replied that their son was as alive as the rooster and the chicken that he was preparing to eat. At that precise moment, the rooster and the chicken jumping from the plate and began to sing.

From that day on, there have been chickens at the cathedral. Until today! Look in the lower left of this photo and you can see the chicken in the coop, just the red head shows up – it’s probably really nice behind this area. Above the coop is a piece of the gibbet!

This church was great, not because of the church, though it’s huge/amazing, but because of the saint that it’s named for –  Saint Gregorio.

Saint Gregorio was born in 1019 as Dominic Garcia. He wanted to be a monk, but they told him he wasn’t smart enough for the studying. So he left to be a hermit in the forest near where the town is now. His sole concern was to make life better for pilgrims. To that end, he cleared several kilometers of very thick briars. According to legend, he was told by the owner that he could clear what he wanted for the pilgrims, but only as much as he could do in one day. So he cleared 5 k in one day. Another version is that with his scythe, he hit one tree and the others miraculously fell down. Supposedly a part of his scythe is now covered with silver and hanging above his burial memorial. I couldn’t find it, but here’s the memorial and if you look at the top, there are chains from Christians that he saved from the Moors. 
He also built the first bridge in the town and opened travel for people on the Camino and took away the bandits that ferried people. 

The town grew from where he was buried in the middle of the Camino path in this area. The cathedral was raised over his grave and the houses gathered. Saint Gregorio of the Calzada, or Causeway. 
More great symbols of pilgrims, just love coming upon these. They’re throughout the cathedrals, towns and it’s interesting to see each town’s presentation.

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I loved today’s walk – again. Completely alone this time, not even a brief conversation except in my head. And I even managed to quiet that down. I didn’t sleep at all last night, but when I get going in the cool morning and the farms stretch out in front of me, I just can’t believe I’m getting to do this. There was cloud cover, perfect temperature, a bit of a breeze and grapes to snack on – just one bunch! – in the morning. Then vineyards changed to wheat fields and the farmers were out in their tractors. It was beautiful with the Camino stretching out in front and a few pilgrims in front and back.

Walked almost all of today alone with occasional encounters. I couldn’t sleep from 3:45 on, so got off to an early start at 7:15. Somehow being tired and putting stuff together, feet care, all of it just ends up taking time. But – I also wouldn’t want to leave earlier than that. It’s so dark!

I found 2 peregrinos pretty quickly and walked behind, think they were German, but their pace was a lot slower than mine. Then another guy passed them and I fell in behind him. He seemed very certain of the way and since it was dark and I was happy to not be staring at my phone, I followed him. I’m ok on my own if I can see the signs, but it took a while before it got light and then it was beautiful. 

Hours later, somehow we had leapfrogged each other and he caught up with me. We started talking and he had left from the main start in France, 700 km from where I started at the bottom of France. He had until Oct 15 and then would go back home from wherever he was. It truly wasn’t about the destination for him, it was the journey. He and I were chatting the usual, where are you from, etc. and I mentioned the fact that no one asks “why are you doing this?” He said, yes, it’s so private and individual that people do just seem to understand that’s not generally asked, but he was happy to tell me about his journey. 

He was bored in his job, his children were finishing high school, he and his wife needed to think about what they were going to do to find new things, and he was feeling pretty lost. He talked to his parents, who had done the Camino a few years before, and they told him he needed to go do it and to do it alone. COVID and his son’s graduation held him up and then he left. He said it’s been everything for him, he has had so many creative ideas about work, thoughts about family and what he wants to do. He wants to come back and do it with his wife. He was just beaming. It was lovely. 

I was back to walking by myself and came into the first small town a third of the way. I was looking for food since I hadn’t eaten anything but a few almonds (bought at DIA) and found the little town’s giant church, Iglesia de La Asunción. I was lucky because it was open and they had music playing. I stayed for 15 minutes. It was quiet, I was earlier than most and though the music in the video doesn’t sound great, in person, it was wonderful. The book was right; “Wait for the church to open or hunt up a key, because La Asunción contains one of the most stunning Baroque retablos in all of Spain. Constructed over 2 earlier temples in 1583-1625.” He then gives a full page description of how to look at the church’s offerings and it really is incredible. 

What he doesn’t mention is the sacristy’s visuals, something I haven’t seen before. What looks like a coffin with Jesus off the cross. An English guy sitting in our group later said he thought it was just bizarre, “wasn’t he supposed to be risen then?”

Yep, something different. 
On a more cheerful note, as I was walking I passed this, the translation: “happiness is contagious.”

At this same spot, I was passing by quite an extensive park on the other side of the path. Oh – bathroom! But no. I don’t know if it’s Spain or COVID, but there are no public restrooms that I’ve found. Cafe’s come along pretty frequently and that helps. However, sometimes it’s just a little thing, but definitely would like a bathroom. And, of course, once you think of it, that’s an issue and that’s all you can think about. How can there be a park this big and no restrooms? I see what I think might be a potential building, so head that way. An older gentlemen starts talking – no, peregrino, go that way – much prettier, near the lake. His Spanish was so pretty, kind of rolling and I got most of it. Ok, I’ll do that, but is there a bathroom. Yes, yes, but go that way, it’s prettier. Ok, thank you. And it was pretty – here’s the lake:
But the bathroom? He met me at the end of my path and his, which was lower, and then he showed me, giving me directions again, up the hill, on the left, don’t go to the right – that’s the men’s and yuck (don’t remember the exact word), ok, well, I’ll go that way. But wait! you have to see the fish!

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Huh, guess they get fed here a lot, right? Yes, very proudly. Then he led me to the public bathroom, bless his heart. 
Then, I’m walking along, enjoying my breathing practice and the morning and another guy comes along, I want to practice my English, I often ask peregrinos if I can walk alongside and talk. Ok, I’ll practice my Spanish. He’d been to NY, Boston, and Buffalo. Buffalo? Less expensive and he could stay in motels. Then as he was clearly ok walking with me for as long as it took to the next town, I just said I’m going to walk alone now and off he went. Very freeing this being able to say what you’re going to do!
And after nearly 18 miles, walked into the last town, Najera, and saw this sign:

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Another great day! 

I stayed put today and it was wonderful. Things still aren’t dry though they’ve been hanging all day, but they’ll be better than they would have been and clean (ish) clothes will be great.

Logrono was near the site of where St. James appeared on his white horse to help the Christians fight the Moors. It’s a large city with a core old city in the midst which is where I spent my time. From The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: “The Spanish Inquisition, founded in 1478, did not cease operations until 1834. (Horrifying) It had a dozen or so regional tribunals, of which Logrono was one.”

Went to mass at the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Redonda with someone I’ve met up with on and off over the week. She was delighted to have company. Her hiking partner went ahead and she was taking a break and catching a taxi to the next spot later. I keep forgetting that it’s about 20 minutes by car between these stops. Tomorrow is 18 miles, I can see why she took a cab.

The mass was interesting for a few reasons. A – a mass – very different from sitting meditation. The lights were on so I could see a lot more of the church. Sat near the Mary that I thought was beautiful yesterday.

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This is behind one of those side chapels so bit of a hard angle.

The best part for me of the service was the music being played while waiting for the mass to begin. The acoustics in these cathedrals are incredible. I wish they all had music playing. Then the nun came out lighting candles, putting the readings out and then the priest tottered out. And I mean tottered. I was nervous every time he rounded a corner or had to take a step up or down. When he did the communion service another priest came out and he was even more fragile, using a cane and slooowwwly making his way to the side of the first priest. Oh boy, this is not looking good for the church. There were probably 30 people total, all seemed to be active members except for Maryanne and me.

I just thought how hard it would be for this to be your comfort and mainstay and in not too long, there may not be a priest serving this church. My goodness, these churches are all over the country. What a huge change.

Most did communion, choosing whether the wafer was put in hands or tongue. Of course I was thinking of Rick the whole time and his analysis of tongues from being an altar boy 🙂

When I was talking about the service to Merv and Fiona, he said that the majority of priests world over used to be Irish raised and trained. When all of the scandals came out, 15% of all charged are/were Irish. In 2019 less than 10 men chose to be trained as priests. That’s a huge change. He was a Dublin policemen who did investigations and definitely knew what he was talking about.

But – I got to see the main cathedral in action and it was beautiful to look around and see the incredible detail of carving, painting and imagination.

Then I walked over the peregrino’s church – Iglesia de Santiago de Real. This seemed like a much more active community, lot more people, little kids, the priest was way more lively, could get up and down by himself and sang part of the service. I only caught the last bit, but was glad I went in. Somehow, this church and all of the statues and mentions in Logrono gave a feel for all the prilgrims who’ve passed this way over the 100’s of years. I’ve put photos of a statue of Santiago, the choir and the church and the pilgrim’s prayer. And tomorrow, my path starts in front of his church.

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Also – final evening touch with the statues of peregrinos – in action!

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Today somehow went really quickly even though it was 8 hours of walking with breaks built in – I’m learning. Don’t pass a cafe if possible, even if not with others, just eat something, get off your feet for a bit. Plus – getting to see/watch everything is still completely wonderful.

I’ve now been walking for a week and tomorrow I get the day off. I have to say, I’m totally ok with that. I put all my clothes in the bathtub – most places seem to have them here – and cleaned the lot. They’re hanging all over now and hoping they dry by tomorrow night.

I then went to a pharmacy to get more options for my feet. They had something I hadn’t see before. Little tubes you cut to size and put on your toes – she could see the blisters since I’m wearing flip flops as soon as I get my shoes off. I wonder if they stop blistering at some point? I’m kicking myself because I got new socks, thought they were the same size and they’re just a bit too big. That’s not a good thing. Well, I can still walk no problem. They really are minor compared to some of the others I’ve heard about and I’m so very easily distracted by the views, people, books on tape.

Today, got a taxi, same guy from last night who drove me here. He was here at 7:30 on the dot and again drove like lightning back to Los Arcos speaking Spanish just as rapidly. I always say si, or whatever, as if I have a clue. Sometimes I did. As in – told him no I didn’t go dancing or join the wine festival. At all. He couldn’t believe it. Dancing, are you kidding me?

Met up with 6 of the people I know in the hotel I was going to stay in, all having breakfast. The owner felt badly when he saw me again and urged me to eat. But I was fine to start off with Fiona and Merv for one more day of hiking. First sunrise on the way – other days it was too grey.

Hikers behind and in front and we’re off. We chatted until the first coffee stop in Sansol. I took a video of the little church, a very small octagonal church. It was built by Muslims for the Christians 12c, Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro. I took the video because it just astonishes me that so much time and care could be put into such a small building. It was owned by the Knights Templar. Possibly a funeral chapel since excavations around it have turned up tombs.

We had coffee and then I sent them ahead. They were walking faster than I was and I had longer to go since they were stopping in a town before Logrono, Viana.

I walked along, listening to a new book and again, just feeling so lucky. At one point, I saw a woman go into a vineyard and get some grapes. This time, I went too. She spoke almost no Spanish, but had a bit of English. She was Lithuanian and this was her 5th Camino. She said she missed last year, but always came in September because of the grapes. She mimed people who complained, and intimated that they were crazy. She just radiated joy.

The next town was Viana. The first time I’ve seen a town advertise its age in a celebration, though they probably all do.

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So cool, the banner, the Camino sign and the ancient bridge. This was a really wonderful town. If I’d known more, I would have stayed here for sure. These small towns are beautiful, serene and so inviting. A lot of people I met over the week were staying here for a day. Stopped in a cafe and had a tortilla (egg, cheese, and potato pie) and a coke. Needed a bit of wake up and the tortilla was the only thing that wasn’t bread.

Then walked the rest of the way to Logrono. It felt really long, but it was probably only another 7ish miles. Got another rest at Lucia’s cafe. I asked Mr. Lucia (don’t know his name) if it was a lot of work doing the cafe and he just broke out in a huge grin. In Spanish, but “In a restaurant in Logrono, everyone’s so grumpy, hard work. Here – everyone’s happy, I love it, it’s not like work at all!” A Spanish guy came up and listened grinning, “it’s a happy life.” Mr. Lucia, “It’s a great life!”

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Met up with John and Mandy here – from England, doing a bit of hop and skip around to do the Camino in a few weeks. We decided to have dinner tonight after they got in, usually after me as they take more time to chat with people they meet and stroll. 
Saw more welcomes to peregrinos. Along with everyone I pass on the road who all wish me a “buen Camino,” are old fountains and old and new notices to pilgrims. Here are a couple:

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Maybe having a burial place on the Camino brings good luck?

Saw an interesting little wood and then walked back into Logrono after leaving this morning.