I know I’ll probably repeat some of today with the family, but needed to do some walking so took my earbuds and phone and walked a couple of Rick Steves tours. They’re so good!
When we were here 8 years ago for my sister’s and stepmother’s birthdays, I didn’t do either of the walks I did today and they were great. Ended up walking about 9 miles which was more than I expected, but I saw a lot!
One fact that stood out today was that there was a big schism in Christianity. A note from AI: The Schism between the Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox churches occurred in 1054 with the event known as the East-West Schism. This formal break in communion was the result of centuries of growing tensions, political and cultural differences, and theological disagreements between the Western and Eastern branches of Christianity. The formal split was marked by the mutual excommunication of the Pope of Rome and the Patriarch of Constantinople.
I never thought about it and why the Orthodoxy practices are so different. The churches are so elaborate and gorgeous. Evidently, practitioners are supposed to stand, thus the many things to look at, but very few chairs for only older practitioners.
Anyway, I looked at the first walk, Athens City and it started 350 feet from the front door of the hotel. Clearly meant to be. Between 2500 years of history (he does know how to pack it in), the cool perfect morning weather and the interesting sights, I had a wonderful morning.
At the end of the biggest pedestrian shopping mall is this gem. The Church of Kapnikarea, built in the 11th and 12th centuries. I love these kinds of juxtapositions.
The next stop was the big cathedral, built in 1842. The only reason I’m including this is because the archbishop here in WWII was incredible. He was a rare Christian leader who spoke out against the Nazi’s and protected the Jews as much as he could. They threatened to put in front of a firing squad and he joked they should hang him instead. After the war, he was the caretaker prime minister. Pretty amazing. The statue of him was erected by Athens’ Jewish community as a show of thanks.
I then continued with the tour around Athens, winding up through a wonderfully tiny neighborhood in the back of the Acropolis that I wondered if I’d find again. Can’t wait to be there with the family.
I came back to the hotel, to cool off, and get a hat and drop the over shirt – it was getting hot. My plan was to do the tour of the Agora, the ancient home of democracy. I was telling one of the bellmen my plan and he told me to go to this neighborhood in the back (different back) of the Acropolis for lunch. Off the beaten track. Cool, I’ll do that.
We’ll, the Agora was great, though the entry was not marked and was all the way on the other side from the Rick Steves directions. But I did find it, following a French couple who were also wondering if they’d ever find their way in.
Ach, just looked at my photos, really impossible to convey the enormity of this open-air plaza where people actually voted and help their senators accountable. So many cool places, here’s a view of the Acropolis from the Agora. They used to march in a parade from here all the way up once a year, a great spectacle taking a newly woven robe to Athena in the Parthenon.
After I finished the tour, I decided to try to find this neighborhood to the right and back of this view of the Acropolis where Georgia told me to go. I was watching my phone’s battery and using GPS as sparingly as I could. And I walked. And walked.
I ended up in great neighborhoods, saw parents waiting to pick up their kids and then a market that was only locals and went for blocks. I was definitely the only tourist in the midst so just took one snap. I then continued with the tour around Athens, winding up through a wonderfully tiny neighborhood in the back of the Acropolis that I wondered if I’d find again. Can’t wait to be there with the family.
I then finally gave up on finding these small plate restaurants that he said were great and started trying to find my way back. At one point, I was in the midst of land with no people in sight and I had no idea where I was. This was wide open in the midst of Athens! On my map it said I would pass Socrates’ prison – I wanted to see that. I didn’t see that.
I did see this burial spot of Thucydides – amazing to know this name and his history and here he was!
Then I suddenly hit a beautiful cobble wide walkway, ok, I must be getting closer to something I’ll recognize.
Whew, ok I recognize something (the Acropolis)and think I can find my way back if my phone runs out.
Yay, so happy to eventually make my way back to the hotel. I realized I did an entire circumnavigation of the Acropolis adding in many different areas. Loved getting a real sense of the space and how the neighborhoods work.
I wanted to explore with the family, so went on Viatours to find something that would be a day excursion and found a boat trip that went to three islands. It looked like a sailing boat from the ad, but nope, it motored, but it had these crazy big cushions that every one sat on for and aft and we just motored along. The weather was perfect, I had a good spot with a fair amount of sun protection (it’s hot!). I read two parts of two different books, chatted with a few passengers and had a very chill day.
This was a sister boat that went out at the same time. See how it looks like there would be sails?
We had three stops, I walked out and back at the first island, Agistri. I had thought I’d rent a bike, but it really was just the shoreline and then I would have been riding up into hot and arid hills, that didn’t really call. But I had a decent walk and the water was beautiful.
This is coming into the island, so pretty, with the classic blue and white church at the center.
The second island, Metopi, was just a stop for a swim. I did jump in, I’d brought mask and snorkel, but there weren’t any fish. However, the water was a perfect temp, I was really hot after walking on the previous island and it felt great. This island was a small rock and protected (though I don’t know what was there to be protected, so dry!), so we just were in the water for maybe 30 min.
The last island was Aegina, known for pistachio production. They had all kinds of pistachio products, but way too early in the trip to buy anything and I’m not wild about pistachios anyway so didn’t try any (“they’re so fresh!”). However, it did have a totally cool temple and monastery. Two other women and I shared a taxi for a set fare and he got us up to both places and back to the boat in time.
Even though it was just a tiny island, evidently Aegina was a serious maritime trading site. The Temple of Aphaia was the precursor to the Parthenon. Just unbelievable to see this temple at the very top of the island with views everywhere. You couldn’t help but think about who did the work, ach, but it was truly beautiful, built between 500 and 490 BC.
The nymph Aphaia was thought of as the daughter of Zeus and was only worshipped here. So curious how these things evolve.
We did a quick hit and run to the monastery, truly beautiful and huge. It looked so well maintained and had an amazing balcony with balustrades all the way around which caught the breezes and was so cool. Even a monk with full robes would be comfortable!
This was the Chrysoleontissa Monastery. (Copied from internet) According to the local tradition, Panagia Chryssoleontissa was originally built in the coastal village of Leonti, which was, however, very vulnerable to pirate incursions. After being raided and laid waste no less than three times, it was decided in the early 17th century that it should be transferred to a secure location away from the sea.
Legend has it that, for three consecutive mornings, when the builders returned to the construction site, their tools, left there since the previous night, had disappeared. Instead, they found them at the exact place where the monastery stands today. So, the monks decided that this should be the chosen place.
In its present form, the complex is square and includes a crenelated tower built in 1601, and the primary church (called the katholikon), which was erected later on, in 1808. Situated in the center of the courtyard, the convent church is dedicated to the Dormition of the Mother of God, Saint Dionysios, and Saint Charalambos.
Built to protect the monks from the pirates, it is 20 meters high and has three storeys. With its characteristically high walls, turrets, battlements, and narrow windows, it looks more like a fortress than a monastery. The place also features a huge garden and six chapels.
Having played an important role in the 1821 Greek War of Independence, in terms of both spiritual and financial support, this is also a place of great historical significance.
Up to 1935, it functioned as a male monastery. Since then, it has been a convent, housing about 10 nuns. Don’t ask me how 10 nuns can keep it up.
I guess this pathway led up to the chapels and the housing. Just gorgeous.
Lucky me, I’m on another adventure and this time almost the whole family is joining. Sadly, at the last minute my oldest realized she couldn’t join because her dog, her beloved, was not well enough for her to leave him for a week and half. We totally supported her of course, but we will seriously miss her.
I came into Athens two days earlier than the rest because my travel plans shifted and I couldn’t get the same flight – finally got a flight 2 days before the rest left the US.
So I came into Athens, getting in around 9 to the hotel. I hadn’t eaten all day. I actually slept on the first flight and whatever they were serving on the second flight was no identifiable if you weren’t German. So the front desk made a res for me upstairs at the restaurant.
Turns out the restaurant here is a Michelin rated restaurant and I just wanted a snack. So I did get a snack (crazy amazing pea appetizer), and despite the fact that I was only ordering an app, they brought me an amuse-bouche that had 5 parts to it! Crazy and such a treat, each bite perfect and different. Yes, even that little ball on the skewer is one of them.
The place was pretty full, but I was able to be on the balcony with this view.
This has been such an incredible trip, I can’t believe we’re on the last day. At the same time, we’ve done so much, learned, explored so many new things that it feels ok that it’s the last day – it’s been a truly incredible vacation. And tonight we fly back to Munich and get a morning to explore before we fly out.
Today, we walked through town, San Cassiano. Others had gone in at night or for dinner, but we’d stuck with the hotel. Cute town, happy to see it on the walk through, but didn’t feel like I’d missed anything.
We took the gondola up to the ski area of Alta Badia. We had an easy hike up to yes – a last rifugio where we got one more coffee – for me a decaf cappuccino.
This area is dog happy – we’ve seen all manner of dogs hiking all over the mountains. This ski area took dog hospitality to a level I’ve never seen.
So they can see the view of the Marmolada glacier:
The whole group looking at the view on the edge of the ground outside the rifugio. Well, all but Matthew who was on the run per usual!
And a final shot by Matthew as the group leaves by bus for Venice’s airport!
Today was some serious up and downing and an exploration of the remnants of WW1. One of our team was a military guy and he’d been studying the area so was really pleased to get to explore.
So – again, Italy was fighting against the Austrians and Germany during this war. Even though a lot of the people in this area considered themselves Austrian. Hard, to say the least.
We walked all the routes laid out for the day and it was truly beautiful. For something different.
We took a shuttle to Bai des Dones for a chairlift to our trailhead. We met a local guide, Christina, who talked about WWI and the geological formations around us. Luca was very knowledgeable as well so could fill in those of us who were at the back, trying to read the signs and learn what was happening. I wasn’t very interested in the machinery of war, but more so in the lives of those in the midst.
We saw trenches, bunkers, and tunnels.
Where we were going to hike to see from the top seemed incredibly far, but it actually wasn’t the hardest hike of the week. Just long.
Martin presenting our day
I took a video of the surrounding mountains, incredible (word of the week) and on the next to last mountain in the video is our hiking destination after exploring WWI. Really?
These are the Cinque Torri, a group of 5 rocks where the weathering has left a distinctive grouping. Giant and people were rock climbing all over the place, but especially the one on the right.
But first – WWI. Again, remember that they were fighting, largely against their will, their neighbors. The second note made it clear:
In the trenches, these are obviously restructured on the original. But they looked out over steep mountain drop offs.
Getting paid and needing food
Cortina is the closest valley to this bunker and the trenches. The outdoor competitions of the Winter Olympics are going to be here in February 2026. A lot of infrastructure is being built, especially because of climate change and needing to be able to make enough snow.
This is what they were looking at from the bunkers. Impossible to defend or to really attack, though bombs were dropped. This territory was not fought over in WWII.
Headquarters – rough. And looking out from another bunker
Three dogs in this photo – in many of the photos, there are dogs. Comfort? Looks like it since two are being held here.
And now – I’ve skipped a whole lot of info re artillery. But this gives a snippet of the population’s attitudes and lives in the midst. And now we’re on our way to hike. Still a bit disconcerting for where we’re aiming – yes that little white speck on the top. But I’m psyched since I did a shorter hike yesterday.
Climbers
Hiking up to the top – there’s Cinque Torre – it looks so small!
Made it to that little white speck!
Someone at the very tip top of another mountain nearby.
We went down a bit to our last incredible rifugio. Then we started basically a full scramble, hardest hike of the week down to a little mountain lake. The knees had a lot to say on this one. But almost everyone did it!
This photo was the best I could do looking back up what we’d descended. It was a lot steeper than it looks. We were all very pleased to make our way down it!
This does the best (for me) at showing the gorgeous juxtaposition of the many colors of flowers and grasses against the bare mountains. I never stopped marveling and appreciating the colors.
The lake at the end of this beautiful trail that was our reward after the scramble.
Elizabeth recovering
Then back to our hotel via bus, except for maybe 5, including Rick, who did the last mile back on foot. I was psyched to do the – yep – steam rooms at The Wellness Hotel Fanes.
Rick booked it and made it in time and we did the round about sauna. It was seriously hot, but cool. Glad I got to do it with Rick. Everyone but one couple were circumspect and wore towels, so it wasn’t just the puritanical Americans…And the whole sauna really did do a very slow rotation. Good thing Rick had warned me because the first time he thought maybe the heat had gotten to him, not realizing that it rotated.
We had a final group dinner with the guides, very fun, favorite memories in a fingersnap and then we continued the ongoing conversations during dinner. Really, the best group I could imagine.
We started with a lift taking us to the Gardena Pass, one of four mountain passes that encircle the Sella Massif. We were then hiking the Puez-Odle park, an UNESCO World Heritage site. We passed through the village of Corvara and could see into the Badia Valley, “considered to be the heart of the Dolomites region and the indigenous Ladrin people.”
Here’s Luca with an assist from Matt:
We will have a day with a lot of choices. The shortest route was the Colfosco Route: 5.8 miles, 500’ gain, 2,200’ loss. The longest route was going all the way until the hotel, The Wellness Hotel Fanes in San Cassiano, 11.4 miles 1,700’ gain and 3,100’ loss. I did the first and then left Rick and all the others who did the second and then Rick and 2 others carried on to finish out the last, walking up the last hill to the hotel. They actually ended up hiking 14 miles? I did not. We had been told that this next hotel had a great salad bar and I knew it was another sauna, steam hotel. This time, I wanted to ask without a bunch of people around, how does this actually work? If no one was around that I knew, maybe I could do the whole sans clothing thing and enjoy. And I did! I’ll get back to that.
So off we went on our hike. And here’s the Sella’s north face:
And another perspective, and Stuart holding his own in front of it:
Ötzi joins for a look and the downhill.
And a quiet moment with Sara
Today, I took the first route, main climb up to lunch and then down the gondola with all the others and then off, back to the hotel. I indulged all by myself by exploring the spa. I finally went to the woman at the desk and said what do you do with the peel? How do the interaction of the showers work? What’s with the group sauna in the turning room? And I got all my answers!
No suits for most of the areas, one sauna that wasn’t that hot allowed it. Take the peel (little pots of delicious smelling goop) into the sauna/steam room, get quite hot/sweaty rub it all over, sit for a while longer until even more sweat running off you, then shower. You’re supposed to shower after each room. Oops, none of us did that in the other hotels. I don’t think. And take one of the little white pads to sit on. Well, that’s delicate and a nice little touch.
So I found the hottest steam room, called Turkish bath. I was a little worried that you were supposed to do more since there were a couple of hoses in there. Add to the steam? Rinse off there? I didn’t use them.
The Turkish bath was very dark, little lights over head with a variety of short benches with little walls next to them. If felt very private and it was great.
Then the special performance sauna. I missed this, but a lot of the others did it when they got back just in time from the longer hikes. You’re supposed to go in the cold plunge little pool or whirlpool then into the sauna. A guy puts ice and herbs on the hot rocks then waves a towel or a large fan like a matador, walking around the space and blowing HOT air over everyone while softish music plays. That was the 5:15 one. The 6:15 one was loud music, and even hotter. Rick did this, he had a massage first so missed the soft one. When he came up just in time for dinner he was in a complete daze. I decided I’d rather try for the soft one tomorrow.
For dinner, we were on our own again so 6 of us had the great salad bar and other things – the salad bar didn’t even count in terms of having dinner – and then to bed.
We left our wonderful hotel today to venture further into a new valley. We had three choices of routes, and everyone took the long route (I think, can’t remember). The San Casiano Route, 11.4 miles, 1700’ gain, 3,100’ loss. So beautiful. Every day we just marvel.
We started with a lift taking us to the Gardena Pass, one of four mountain passes that encircle the Sella Massif. We were then hiking the Puez-Odle park, an UNESCO World Heritage site. We passed through the village of Corvara and could see into the Badia Valley, “considered to be the heart of the Dolomites region and the indigenous Ladrin people.”
Mountain rhododendron, the flowers are incredible. So many colors, shapes, all tiny.
After a long hard climb, we caught sight of our rifugio for lunch. So happy to see this!
View coming back down after an incredible meal, in the Santan Cristina Gherdeina area. And Ötzi is sighted again!
Our hotel tonight was the Alpenroyal Grand Hotel. One night, but really fun because by now our whole group was getting into this sauna/steam thing. And this hotel had an outdoor pool that was warm and with targeted jets around some of the edges. Hard jets! So you felt like you got a massage. Which Rick and now a few others did, but I was happy with the pool and saunas. I’ve decided I like the steam rooms the most.
On my way to the restaurant, I’d noticed a coat of arms sign with 1370 written on it, and then I saw a full family tree from the same family all the way up to today with a line with people born in the 1950’s and 60’s. Amazing. I’d known that most of the hotels and rifugio’s were family run, but this was one long line of owners!
Dinner on our own, nothing planned so 8 of us ate together, Marla/Ken, Sara/Stuart, Carol/Matthew and Rick and me. So fun and great food again. Started to see a theme here.
We walked outside our hotel on the Völser Weiner Route, our first hike of the day. It was 5.4 miles, 1500’ elevation gain, 900’ loss. This gain loss is what I’d heard a lot about for the Dolomites. Sometimes it did feel like a steady serious uphill or downhill, but except for our next to last day, it was never super hard. It was definitely manageable and the miles were never that long the way we were scheduled. That being said – you could do seriously long hikes if you wanted to, trails go ALL over these mountains.
A note re our hotel – and turns out all of these hotels – they’re “wellness” centers. What does that mean? Goodness, spa, sauna, steam, pools. And in this ancient hotel, they’d carved out spaces in so many directions that Rick and I took at least 30 minutes just to explore and see what was what. It wasn’t until we left after 2 nights that we found out there were two more steam and sauna rooms that we’d completely missed. Rick went for a massage yesterday and Sara texted me asking if I wanted to go to the sauna. Ok. Happy to do it with someone else. You can’t wear bathing suits in the sauna so our group by consensus said we were all going to wrap our towels around us. Sara had come up to see our room and when we were looking out the window we saw at a distance a bunch of people drop their towels and get into the fountain pool. Hmmm.
So we went down and to the sauna and baked. A lot. Then we really wanted to go to the pool but didn’t have suits. We finally decided, with some prodding on my part, to go to that same fountain pool and if no one was there we knew, we’d go behind the statue and hop in. We did and felt quite brave and pleased with ourselves. And what a great way to recover from the sauna!
Here’s Luca doing his artistic debriefing of the second day’s options.
We walked outside our hotel of our hotel, down the hill and the first site was a memorial to WWI with bits and pieces the artist had found on the hillsides. WWII was not fought in this area because they’d realized how futile it was to try to fight in the nooks and crevices of these mountains. Refugees and resistance fighters were able to hide here.
Our hike today set the frame of all the days. We were going valley to valley around the Schwerin massif, “an enduring symbol of South Tyrol.”. But first, orchards, vineyards, dairy farms…
Tyrolean helmet
Looking back down over the church and our hotel – the building just to the right of the church. This is a lot of town are, nestled into a side of a mountain.
Carol and Matthew on the way up, past beautiful meadows and then into the woods.
And our next lunch rifugio with Sara and Marla to welcome me 🙂
And after another amazing lunch, we were off to a mountain lake for swimming.
Here’s the Schwerin massif at the center of 5 valleys. We would see 4 and peak over the top to the fifth over the days of hiking.
We came back into town, but I had some energy and really wanted to see that little church we could see out our window. It looked so far away, but Elizabeth, the youngest amongst us, had already explored early that morning and said it was a wonderful church built on ruins. And that there was a wonderful jeweler in town and worth seeing her shop. So church first.
This plaque explains some of the archeology that was happening around the church. There was a little chapel outside the cathedral that was closed and had a sign “churches, museum and aperitif tours”. Bewildering combo, but this site explained that the chapel was the archeological museum.
I climbed up the hill towards the church passing this site. I went inside and there was a space carved out from the rock that was tiny. How 80 people could fit in here was bewildering, but it did feel protected.
It watched over the town.
In town looking up at church
On my way back, I went into the jeweler hoping to find a wedding ring for Rick. Yes, 36 years later. Several years ago, he’d put his ring into my hands for safe keeping. I have no idea what happened, but it was lost. We were in the Romantik hotel, in a darling little town, on a totally amazing trip with some of our oldest friends (college, Quaker meeting, NY roommate) and wouldn’t that be a cool place to find a ring?
I was completely sweaty from the day, but went in and the goldsmith was a darling woman, so appealing and she did have rings. So I went back and had a shower and asked Rick if we could look for a ring for him. And we found one! We both think it’s perfect and I love seeing it on his hand. The goldsmith had to make a new one to his size so we had to go back at 7. In the meantime, we went to have a cocktail/mocktail on the patio at the hotel. Funny little statues around the place – actually a ton of art all over the hotel, but here’s a snippet.
We then had a dinner out at a woman’s house. She and her husband cook dinners for the group all local food, from her garden or within a few k of her house. She announced a wine that was within 1 k and another that was 7 k away. She’s been recognized – magazine covers around the kitchen – for her part of the Slow Food movement. Another astonishing meal. So efficiently served and delicious. The apricot cake was my favorite.
Rick decided to get some quiet time (there’s very little on this trip) and stayed home, picked up the new ring and had a quiet dinner at the hotel.
Caveat to this section. Turns out between meals, hikes, transition, it was really hard to get time to write every day. So I’m now writing on the last day of the tour and trying to recollect a truly memorable week.
That being said, this will be the longest entry because of learning about the area and the people who settled here.
Today we met up with 3 others who were staying at our hotel and going on the Backroads trip. Turns out Bolzano only has 50 taxis and is quite a big city, actually second wealthiest in Italy. We were going to the Sheraton to meet and it was a solid 30 minutes away. If you’re going to Bolzano, definitely stay near the old town since it’s not that easy to get transportation early or late. There are buses, but time, and getting to where you want to go might be challenging.
So we met our first 3 new people taking a van together – all so nice and turned out that was true for the whole group.
We met for a check in at the Sheraton, to collect water bottles, luggage tags and snacks (turns out food would NOT be a problem on this trip), quick intro. What a nice collection of people between guests and guides. Just a treat for the whole week.
We had our first 4 mile hike on route to our first on route hotel, so we’d come dressed with day packs while the bus took our bags to the hotel after we were dropped at the Gondola.
We started our hike in Welschnofen and took a gondola ride up to the Catinaccio mountain group in the Dolomites. Per our guides, the “Dolomites” was taken from the name of a French geologist, Déodat de Dolomieu, who was the first to describe the type of carbonate rock abundant in these mountains. Evidently he was a chemist and was trying to figure out the mixture of elements in the rock because it was known that it wasn’t pure limestone. He finally add acid to the rock and unlike pure limestone, which would have bubbled up, it stayed stable and he realized that the make up of the stone was almost half calcium carobonate and half magnesium.
There is Dolomite rock elsewhere, but the unique geological history of this area came about because it was once a marine area fully covered with coral and other marine organisms that settled into dolomite rock. When the plates came together and created uplifting, these unusual mountains were formed. This was an important part of our talks by several guides, a lot of pride in this area of their unique mountain region within the alps. And deservedly so – it was spectacular.
Coming from the Rockies, it was startling to see such distinctly different formations. The vast mountain meadows with these dramatic peaks towering over us had all of us taking photo after photo in a vain attempt to capture the beauty. We were hiking, but this is a winter wonderland evidently. Even with climate change happening – and that was talked about a lot – snow was still the primary driver in this area. You can see a snow making machine behind the cow.
Today set the tone for the rest of the week. We hiked from the gondola drop off across the mountains to a lunch at a rifugio – an alpine hut that was one of a series across these mountains. The scenery was just a start – we couldn’t believe how beautiful it was. Seemingly inaccessible, even if a gondola went up, we had the most incredible lunches every single day. A huge variety from which to choose, plates of salad, bread, meats and cheeses promptly put out to greet us to get us warmed up for whatever we wanted from the menu. Really? Astonishing amounts of incredible food. Today’s specialty was the Apple Strudel. It set the tone for Rick – needing to assess apple strudel in every rifugio. This first one set the high bar. Here’s Luca and Martin holding it up for demo before cutting in.
I was so conditioned from Camino food routines, small breakfast, a few snacks, big mid-day meal and little to no supper, made me think – I’m not going to like this whole 3 meal routine and how can you hike after a lunch? Well, turns out, just fine. Oh my goodness, the food was so good, the company was wonderful, the views incredible – every day we just relaxed into these lunches and then carried on after.
We never stopped marveling at these primarily family-run rifugio’s ability to quickly put out these incredible meals, handling a fair number of people with ease. It was also starting to hike for miles seeing some, but not a ton of people and then arrive at the rifugio and all these other people were there too. There are trails all over these mountains and people come all different ways to explore. Sometimes there were dirt roads (rare to see cars), so bikes and trails with different levels of difficulty offered a variety of ways to get up to these places.
We were a group of Americans, one from Peru and one from Portugal, but the rest of us were mono lingual and just marveled at this area. Depending on where the line was in the Dolomites determined German/Italian/English, OR Italian/German OR Ladin/German/Italian. Kids are growing up with 3 languages, one week for each sequentially and then when they get older, subjects moved to a particular language. So cool.
The history of this area is that of Tyrol. The people consider themselves Tyrolean and Ladin was the earliest people and language spoken here. Again, the area determined the languages spoken. We got a synopsis lecture on the history of the area – but I didn’t have my iPad and a lot of the specifics went out the window. What I remember: Italy became a country in the late 1800’s. The northern part was Tyrolean and went back and forth between Austria and Italy. At the time of WWII, this area was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire.
Italy, Austria and Germany made a pact to all defend if one was attacked. When the Crown Prince was assassinated, starting WWII, Austria attacked Russia along with Germany. Italy held out as a neutral territory, wanting Austria to give them Serbia and Croatia if they joined in the war. Austria said no. Then France and England jumped in and asked Italy to join them along with Russia. Again, Italy asked for territory – if they won the war, they wanted the Dolomites and Tyrolean territory. Done. So – very much against many of the Tyroleans who spoke German and considered themselves Austrian, they were now Italian territory since France/England won the war. It’s now settled, but memories are long and the languages reflect the different alliances.
Story of the Ladin in the Dolomites
And now – to the hiking. We had our first experience of the mountains. It was a bit rainy, but not enough to deter us (and so much better than the torrential rain predicted) and the group was such a congenial group, there was a lot of chatting and exclaiming together. The hike went very quickly both before and after lunch. Matthew made sure the Ötzi joined us on many days!
We’d always start with a brief overview with a drawing and description. Backroads had great mapping and tracking on their app and I didn’t look at it once. But I would have if I’d been alone or up in front as our super woman, Michelle, was fun. But I usually brought up the back. I’m steady, but not quick!
We arrived at our hotel and oh, so much fun, right up my alley. It was a historic building, a tower, built in the 1200’s. The Romantik Hotel Turm was originally a residential tower, first mentioned as a courthouse tower and jail in a document in 1244. Sold to a Monastery in 1398,. Used from 1820-1833 as a vacation resident by a Bolzano family. It was converted to an inn with attaché butcher shop i the late 19th century. [The rooms were so individual, a few of us traded looks just to see what had been done. They were really big and every one had spectacular views. It didn’t matter which direction you looked, it was beautiful.
Rick and I went out to explore after cleaning up from the hike. We were in the heart of this tiny town and the church right next door was incredible. Rick thought it might be the most beautiful we’ve seen in our travels. Evidently Italy has a fund and helps take care of these historic structures.
This one was immaculate and the organ incredible. On our last morning, the organist was practicing for 9am mass and I got to listen for a bit before we left for our next hike.
Outside monuments were interesting. This one was to WWI and was painted in 1921. This was on the wall of the church entry.
This monument had us stumped. We’re so conditioned to one way of thinking for WWII and this seemed to celebrate Germany. However, later on one of our hikes, I saw the same helmet painted on a dairy barn door and realized that it may have been more of an emblem of the Tyroleans who had died, no matter the side they were fighting on.
The cemetery was beautiful as well, so well tended and cared for, with many photos in the crosses that served as headstones. It made it feel very personal.
The town fountain was beautiful and there was a local exhibit of an artist’s photos around the town sharing the lives of women in the area.
Finally, strikingly, the benches all through the town had yellow oval medal plaques with quotes asking about life. I translated all of them because I was so curious.
Wolf Schneider’s “diary for the Essentials”
We don’t know who we are, where we come from, where we are going and what we can hold on to.
…In this sea of vagueness, of “It could be – but it could also be different,”man seeks security and in doing so renounces truth.
And today genetics and neurobiology explain…For Brockman, the conclusion therefore seems inevitable that the natural sciences hold the key to the answers to humanity’s important questions:
What am I? Where do we come from, where are we going? How does society work? Hubert us Breuer
Each of us has a story to tell about who we are, where we come from and where we are going. These stories shape our personality, create our certainties and our fears. Andreas Barella
Social work begins with the guest ion: Who is in need?…These are the biblical questions: Who am I, where do I come from, where am I going? This gives rise to very practical challenges. The Jesuit order sent me to Romania in 1991…and the CONCORDIA work was born in Romania and the Republic of Moldova. Father Georg Sporschill
If man comes from heaven, he returns there. To answer the question: “Who are we, where do we come from, where are we going?” …and there are still some who think that man has made a long journey and is not of this world…. Alessandro Conti Puorger
Wolfgang Nethöfel: Being Pious
Piety is a domesticated wild animal…if you let it off the leash of morality. And within this beast lies the knowledge of where we come from, who we are, and where we are going. Our guide dog walks on the reins of morality.
And there were many many more.
The end of our day was a group welcome cocktail/mocktail gathering and a great dinner at the hotel. Rick – laughing. We laughed a lot on this trip!
Final sunrise and listening to the bells in Mozartplatz and Residenzplatz. It’s so beautiful here.
The train was easy again, clean, this time we knew to look for the car number, and the seat number, we were familiar with the Innsbrook train station for the transfer. So much easier.
We got to our hotel in Bolzano, turned out to be a 500 year old manor house that looks like a castle that had been completely redone. Castle Hortenberg. Snuggled in the midst of a bunch of apartment buildings. The things this castle has seen in its lifetime, I can’t imagine. All the land gone, but somehow the owners made this a quiet oasis. The owners sound pretty amazing, committed to philanthropy, have vineyards and an olive farm, environmentally focused. It was a wonderful overnight.
We then realized that we were only about 5 minutes from the old city, which probably makes sense since this would have been an important element of the region. We walked in and met Marla, Ken, Carol, Matthew, Sara and Stuart at the South Tyrol Archeological Museum. My friend Sabra had just been here a couple of weeks ago and said it was a great exhibit. Marla got tickets for our group and we were off to see Ötzi the Iceman.
Fascinating. Here’s the link to give info, but safe to say, all of us were fascinated to learn the story of how he was found, why he’s so remarkable and some behind the scenes stories from our guide.
Here’s a Wikipedia synopsis: Ötzi”, a well-preserved natural mummy of a man from about 3350 BC (53 centuries ago).This is the world’s oldest natural human mummy, a wet mummy, as opposed to mummies preserved by dry conditions in a desert environment. It has offered an unprecedented view of Copper Age European culture. The world’s oldest complete copper age axe was found among his extensive equipment, which also comprised a rather complex fire-lighting kit and a quiver loaded with 12 arrows, only two of which were finished, clothing, and a flint knife complete with its sheath.
We then all went back to hotels to get a bit cleaned up, or settle a bit, since the others had just come in recently and then we met up in different groups for dinner. Sara, Stuart, Rick and I went to a place near our hotel, a beer garden, with decent food and then we walked in to see more of the old town all of which have the hills and mountains as soon as you get to an open spot.
Another fun day on our way to starting our Backroads hiking tour in the Dolomites.
Reb's Walks! 