Saturday, Sep 25. Los Arcos to Logrono, 13.7m

Today somehow went really quickly even though it was 8 hours of walking with breaks built in – I’m learning. Don’t pass a cafe if possible, even if not with others, just eat something, get off your feet for a bit. Plus – getting to see/watch everything is still completely wonderful.

I’ve now been walking for a week and tomorrow I get the day off. I have to say, I’m totally ok with that. I put all my clothes in the bathtub – most places seem to have them here – and cleaned the lot. They’re hanging all over now and hoping they dry by tomorrow night.

I then went to a pharmacy to get more options for my feet. They had something I hadn’t see before. Little tubes you cut to size and put on your toes – she could see the blisters since I’m wearing flip flops as soon as I get my shoes off. I wonder if they stop blistering at some point? I’m kicking myself because I got new socks, thought they were the same size and they’re just a bit too big. That’s not a good thing. Well, I can still walk no problem. They really are minor compared to some of the others I’ve heard about and I’m so very easily distracted by the views, people, books on tape.

Today, got a taxi, same guy from last night who drove me here. He was here at 7:30 on the dot and again drove like lightning back to Los Arcos speaking Spanish just as rapidly. I always say si, or whatever, as if I have a clue. Sometimes I did. As in – told him no I didn’t go dancing or join the wine festival. At all. He couldn’t believe it. Dancing, are you kidding me?

Met up with 6 of the people I know in the hotel I was going to stay in, all having breakfast. The owner felt badly when he saw me again and urged me to eat. But I was fine to start off with Fiona and Merv for one more day of hiking. First sunrise on the way – other days it was too grey.

Hikers behind and in front and we’re off. We chatted until the first coffee stop in Sansol. I took a video of the little church, a very small octagonal church. It was built by Muslims for the Christians 12c, Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro. I took the video because it just astonishes me that so much time and care could be put into such a small building. It was owned by the Knights Templar. Possibly a funeral chapel since excavations around it have turned up tombs.

We had coffee and then I sent them ahead. They were walking faster than I was and I had longer to go since they were stopping in a town before Logrono, Viana.

I walked along, listening to a new book and again, just feeling so lucky. At one point, I saw a woman go into a vineyard and get some grapes. This time, I went too. She spoke almost no Spanish, but had a bit of English. She was Lithuanian and this was her 5th Camino. She said she missed last year, but always came in September because of the grapes. She mimed people who complained, and intimated that they were crazy. She just radiated joy.

The next town was Viana. The first time I’ve seen a town advertise its age in a celebration, though they probably all do.

So cool, the banner, the Camino sign and the ancient bridge. This was a really wonderful town. If I’d known more, I would have stayed here for sure. These small towns are beautiful, serene and so inviting. A lot of people I met over the week were staying here for a day. Stopped in a cafe and had a tortilla (egg, cheese, and potato pie) and a coke. Needed a bit of wake up and the tortilla was the only thing that wasn’t bread.

Then walked the rest of the way to Logrono. It felt really long, but it was probably only another 7ish miles. Got another rest at Lucia’s cafe. I asked Mr. Lucia (don’t know his name) if it was a lot of work doing the cafe and he just broke out in a huge grin. In Spanish, but “In a restaurant in Logrono, everyone’s so grumpy, hard work. Here – everyone’s happy, I love it, it’s not like work at all!” A Spanish guy came up and listened grinning, “it’s a happy life.” Mr. Lucia, “It’s a great life!”

Met up with John and Mandy here – from England, doing a bit of hop and skip around to do the Camino in a few weeks. We decided to have dinner tonight after they got in, usually after me as they take more time to chat with people they meet and stroll.
Saw more welcomes to peregrinos. Along with everyone I pass on the road who all wish me a “buen Camino,” are old fountains and old and new notices to pilgrims. Here are a couple: