Monday, 4 Oct. Hornillos Del Camino to Castrojeriz, 12.5 miles

I know I write in hyperbole, but truly every day brings wonder. I had decided to do today without any talking or listening to books and it was so easy. The walk was shorter and easier on feet and effort. I loved the open spaces. It was colder, started at 39, and maybe got into the 50’s. I was good except for the hands. I didn’t even realize how cold they’d gotten until I had to ask someone to open my hot chocolate packet because I couldn’t make my thumbs work – but otherwise, the clothes worked and the walking was wonderful. 

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The first town I came to after about 6 miles was Hontanas and I realized I’d started to think in terms of medieval safety of pilgrims. This is the entry to town and I thought – what were they thinking? They’re down in a little valley, no castle and totally unprotected!

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 But I went looking for a cafe and hot chocolate and the church, of course.  The church was interesting because, yes 14th century and all that, but inside they had put a series of photos and descriptions of pilgrimages in Spanish and English going up the steps to the tower. Including pilgrimages of all different religions. The first scene when you walked into the church showed a photo montage of current day – saints? Not sure, but again, from many walks of life. I’ve never seen any reference to anything but Catholicism in any of the other churches. Of course, there was one figure that filled me with curiosity – have no idea – had to include her because she does look like a story is there…

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Not happy, but definitely evocative of something and the brocade mantle is amazing. 

Then walking walking for 5 more miles after my two hot chocolates to warm up, blissfully dreaming and focusing on the breath and then see this – just out of the blue on the country road. 

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The main ruin was to the left to this entry arch. I walked in and the feeling was of comfort, just a ruin, a gorgeous ruin, but something was left there. Everyone walked into the space and just fell silent. So many people were helped is all I could think. First time I’ve had that feeling in all the places/churches I’ve been in so far. A giant monastery and hospital of the Order of San Anton. These are mainly from 14th and 15th c.

OK, the statue was jarring, but the piece of building behind it. 

David and Linda in The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago write this about the group that built this:     “The Order of San Anton was founded in 1093 in St. Didier de la Mothe when the hermit Anthony’s relics were taken there and a man named Guerin, whose child suffered from a burning affliction seemingly akin to leprosy, prayed to St. Anthony and the child was cured. The symptoms of St. Anthony’s fire – the burning sensation, bluish color, loss of circulation and eventually gangrene, as well as loss of mental functions – suggest ergot poisoning, caused by eating barley bread infected with a fungus generating the alkaloid ergotine. This plague, who’s onset is documented in the 10th c., reached epidemic proportions from the 11th to the 14th c. The disease could often be alleviated by change of diet (eliminating barley bread and increasing intake of wine, which dilated the veins) and vigorous exercise: e.g., pilgrimage. The hospices of San Anton credited with curative powers, sprang up along Europe’s major pilgrimage routes. The Order also treated cases of leprosy, which was likewise thoughts to be cured by pilgrimage. Well, it if it did not cure it, at least it got the presumably contagious lepers out of town.      Ergotism’s symptoms additionally resembled those of a porcine disease that the Order also attended. This may explain why San Anton is often shown accompanied by a pig. Since lepers had to announce their approach by banging 2 boards together or ringing a bell, the bell is another emblem of this saint. The Order adopted as its symbol a tau, said to resemble the mark the angel placed on the doors of Egyptian Jews to exempt them from the plague that killed firstborn sons. The Order’s members wore a blue Tau on their black habits, and they fed pilgrims white bread marked with the Tau. At its height, the Order of San Anton administered as many as 369 hospitales in Europe. The Order was disbanded in 1787.”

So cool. 

Then within another 2 miles was Castrogeriz, where I’m staying tonight. Here’s the scene at the start of the town:

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It has everything. The Camino sign, the town name, the church from the 11th c. And the castle for fortification above. 

Another wonderful medieval town. This seems a bit livelier, people walking around a bit. I would spend another day here if I were just adlibbing this trip. I couldn’t find the hotel at first, my GPS failing me for the first time and telling me I had miles to go yet. No!! Then walking down the street, I heard my name being called and finally looked way up and saw Sue leaning out her window on the third floor saying it’s here! That was wonderful. AND there’s an elevator, so I don’t have to carry my bags up 3 flights.

I think I’m going to have my second night in Spain that’s quiet with the window open and just birdsong in the morning. 15 miles tomorrow, but it’s going to be tempting to go slowly leaving this wonderful town. Here’s the scene outside my window.

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