Camino Primitivo, 17.Sep.2022, Oviedo to Grado, 16.3 miles

As Dad used to say in his later years, “happy, happy!”  I had a fantastic day, a big grin on my face for the first many miles and happy for all of it. That feeling of walking, listening, enjoying, came right back from last year’s Camino. So lucky to be stepping out again.

Summer and I got maps, All Trails, everything I could download last night and Wise Pilgrim ended up being the one to get me out of Oviedo. There were only random shells, no arrows and their directions worked perfectly. Above was the first certain direction without my phone and they stayed steady on the rest of the way.

These guys were typical of who I saw today. Almost everyone is carrying a pack, some looked big, I was perfectly happy to not be doing that. The guy on the left and I leap frogged a lot. At one point, there was a pretty little fountain that was not potable and he warned me. I said I knew, just looking and he asked if I was ok, tired? Nope, just slow! Need water? Wow, so nice of him. I asked him where his friend was and he said they separated so that they didn’t talk. A man after my own heart! And all in Spanish, I was so pleased with myself. 

Actually, I was just pleased with myself all day. My hikers wool and hikers goo worked perfectly, my food planning made a huge difference, never ran out of energy. Nutrition shake, nuts, seaweed and I didn’t even touch the almond M&M’s (thanks Kaziah for that suggestion). 

These were the mountains I came through on the train, so far my mountains seem much more manageable. My hostess tonight told me wait for 2-3 days ahead. Ok, but today was good. 

Love the drama of the warning – that guy is so gone. Not nearly as many bikers, none were on Camino and all were cheerful, sending out “Buen Camino’s”as they went by.

Isn’t this cute? I thought it was a wonderful carriage house, but turns out it’s a granary like what I saw last year, but much bigger. Marta, my hostess said that they’re typical for the Asturia region, but that you’re not allowed to live in them or make them into housing. 

Happy happy! There were a bunch of little vignettes from the day, but one stands out. I walked for three hours happily in silence, then listened to a dharma book for a few hours and then started listening to the playlist Kylie made for me. I’m singing along with John Denver as I walked between a row of houses – maybe 15 that made up the town. I saw a car with two women stop ahead of me, the small car taking up the whole street and one of the women got out. Then the other waved to me and pointed me the right way. I would have missed and I realized that the other woman was pulling the plantings away that were covering the Camino sign. So nice!

Can you believe? The view from my bathroom. I got to Grado and realized that Maps said I had another 1.45 hours ahead of me to get to my hotel. Hmm. I actually was ok to do it since it was only 2:30, but thought it seemed odd. Turns out that I was supposed to call the hotel to come pick me up. So I did and Marta came to pick me up and said she was driving to the top of the mountain. On the first night on Camino, I may have hit the highlight of the trip. She’s just lovely. Her house is great – I’ll get a picture – and is where her father was born. With her father’s urging, she reshaped it into a B&B. She said it was incredibly difficult and wouldn’t do it again, but is super proud of what she has created and so she should be. It’s beautiful. Marta lived in England for 10 years and has beautifully accented English and every once in a while slips into it, but then stops herself. “No! Just Spanish!”

And it was such a treat to hear English. I’ve heard 2 guys were who American, everyone else is Spanish, German or French. This is a hardy lot hiking this Camino!