I can’t believe I’m on another adventure. Quite a year!
I’m in Istanbul with a 3-day layover to get a big of jet lag out of the way, then to Nepal for 2 weeks, then back to Istanbul to meet Rick to explore.
Istanbul. There’s a reason so many people have talked about this city and we’ve wanted to see it. It’s amazing, beautiful, interesting, and a lot to learn. I came into the trip pretty wiped out because of a serious pace in the weeks leading up to it. I slept a little on the plane, though not much, and when I finally got to Istanbul, I was weaving on my feet.
I’m in a little hotel right in the Old City, the Hotel Komana. Built above a 1700 year old cistern from the Roman then Byzantine years. My favorite thing (not) – a big clear panel in the restaurant looking down at the archeological remains of a truly gorgeous white stone (brick?) cistern. Happily, I don’t have to cross the panel to eat in the breakfast room and I probably won’t.
Confession – I came into this trip appallingly ignorant. My friend Sharon had been here before and talked about her hotel looking over the sea. Sea? I thought it was landlocked. Sigh. I just thought about the Mediterranean on the southern border. I’m going to be learning a lot.
I had set up a guide for later in the week, but nothing today. And good thing. I was so wiped out, I slept until 9. 9!!! Unheard of. Then slowly got it together and went to breakfast at 10. Crazy. I then did email for 2 hours trying to catch up. And left the hotel by 12.
I really am just across a park from the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. I found a bench and just watched the people (so watchable) and listened to Rick Steves’ short talk about Rumí. Yep, learned a lot I hadn’t known about Rumí and Sufism.
On the Bosphorus, ancient city walls on the left, traditional garb on the right (15 million people, 98% Muslim) and a very modern city all around.
Then continued to walk. Clearly, I was such a mark. A guy started stating facts behind me, I thought maybe he was leading a group? Then, no, he was directing the comments to me about the Blue Mosque. Nice guy, we chatted as we walked and yep, he was a rug merchant. But what the hey, it’s all new to me. So we walked a few blocks down to his store. And what a store it was – the rugs were unbelievably gorgeous. Designs I’d never seen before. I told him flat out that I wasn’t buying anything. In fact, we had rugs in our garage that were going to family because they didn’t fit in our house. But I got to look anyway while sipping “our local fruit tea” in a wonderfully fluted glass. I then left with him next to me pointing to “this is our family’s jewelry store”. Nope, I don’t buy jewelry; I live in Boulder. We just work out.
But – I may have to take Rick to look because, truly, the rugs were beautiful.
I then wandered through the streets, trying not to trip on anything because I was looking everywhere. I eventually walked down to the Sea of Marmara which has a slim connection down to the Mediterranean (so not landlocked) and is a sea fully within the borders of Turkey. The Sea of Marmara linked to the Bosphorus Strait that connects to the Black Sea. So the Bosphorus connected the Mediterranean with the Black Sea. An amazing access point for Istanbul.
The first monument to Ataturk and the Turkish flag above.
I was walking all round the point of Gülhane Park which surrounded the Topkapi Palace. It was at the top of the hill with a ton of tall wonderful trees surrounding it so I couldn’t capture a picture. Plus it was so big, I couldn’t figure out where it started and ended. I think the main archeological museum is inside this building. History note: in 1839 Grand Vizier Mustafá Resid Pasha proclaimed the Edict of Gülhane here, launching sweeping modernization and equality reforms. These imperial gardens were made into a public park in 1912.
This is the only glimpse I could get of this giant palace built in 1478 and occupied by leaders for 380 years. Prior to being built the priests of the Hagia Sophia had their houses in the olive groves on the hillside. Plus just a tiny portion of the towers and one of the gates to enter.
The term Fatīh Beledīyesi stumped me and it was everywhere. Turns out it’s the municipality of Fatīh. Fatīh means “Conqueror”or “The Opener”. Specifically honors Sultan Mehmed II who conquered Constantinople in 1453.
One door into the palace which was closed for the day.
I then walked up a wonderful cobblestone street with a whole row of small townhouses built right up against the ancient town wall.
And came out at the Hagia Sophia.
This is at the end of the cobble streets – the first towers of the Hagia Sophia and I don’t know what this door was with the beautiful writing above. Maybe a guard house for the palace?
I’d walked an entire circle and was right back near my hotel. I’m not going to describe any of these sites because I’m going to be exploring them tomorrow with a guide, so will learn more then.
Seen from the rooftop of my lunch place, glimpse of a mosque, but look at the architectural site! It must be a nightmare to try to build here, everything is on top of Roman or Byzantine or even older structures.
The yellow building is the old jail, now the Four Seasons. I’m guessing the outside makes it look a lot nicer than it was in the old days inside.
Then – I decided, ok, not ready to figure out how to get to the happening spot “just across the bridge and up the funicular” since I hadn’t even seen the bridge. Instead, I decided to go to the Turkish baths that I’d heard so much about. I went to see if I could get a res and I could – in 45 minutes. So I went back to the hotel and dumped everything I didn’t need and off I went. I thought I was very brave because I am a total prude and I’d HEARD STORIES.
The one that was closest to me was the Hurrem Sultan Hammam, just beautiful. Built in 1556, perfectly symmetrical domes on each side, one for women and one for men. The insides were white marble with high domes carved with stars that let a ton of light in. And they moved people through. I went around 4pm and turns out that was perfect. Most tourists, especially tour boat people, were gone and the evening rush of locals hadn’t started.
It was great and while it wasn’t crazy, there were plenty of of women, all in little bath towels with disposable underwear (considered rude not to wear underwear) which were VERY small by my standards. Everyone was taken by hand, literally, walked by hand from place to place by our person who was also wearing the towels. Water, scrubbing, massage, bubbles poured over, more massage, more water, by the end I was so relaxed, I walked out without my jewelry and had to run back.
Definitely a fun thing to do.
Then I sat on a bench and watched the sun setting near the Blue Mosque, watched people, and listened to another Rick Steves talk. This one was about nightlife and it made me want to go find this mile long Itstiklal St where everything is happening. This includes fish markets – where you choose your fish and they cook it for you. I probably won’t do that. However, I don’t want to find my way by tram, bridge, funicular in the night until I’ve done it by day. I’ll try that tomorrow.
Back to my room like a homing pigeon, stayed here for dinner again and then just hung in my room eating the night chocolate from today and yesterday. Sweet.
