I arrived after a perfectly fine all night flight. I slept at best an hour, but i was determined to be awake. However, clearly I wasn’t because others talked about the giant buddha at the airport. I didn’t see it. I did see the machines to get your visa that others seemed to be visiting with success. I went through 2 machines plus a QR code and finally got someone to help, he went to a machine and it stopped working. Hmmm, my tech brown thumb hadn’t really been in operation for a while. Not a good time for it to happen since between group messaging flying in from different WhatsApps groups and maps, I wanted it to work!
I did finally get through the airport, couldn’t get a cash machine to work, happily, finally found one that did. You can’t operate in dollars here and a lot of times the cost is so minimal that there isn’t an option for card of tap, you need Nepalese Rupee. There are so many to the dólar that when I did finally get the max I could at a machine which equaled $230, it was wads of money. And such interesting designs!
The hotel had sent a driver that I’d arranged previously which was great. Later I saw and incredible amount of messages coming from the general group about trying to get taxis, how to tip, what was fair, getting lost, oh thank goodness.
I walked into the hotel at 8:30am and immediately saw a friend from Nalandabodhi. And I was off and running. Not literally, but that’s how it has felt for the least three days. I’m writing retrospectively because there hasn’t been time before now and it’s been wonderful!.
Turns out there are 5 of us from Nalandabodhi staying here, I’d thought I’d be alone because I’d had such a hard time finding a hotel, everyone else I knew was already set. Kristina has been with Rinpoche for many years, and has been in Nepal several times, and has a gift for organizing and making things happen with such joy – usually breaking into song since singing and choir directing is her life. I put my things in my room, joined them for a great breakfast and then we were on to the day’s adventures.
I tried to figure out from maps where we were and going, but it wouldn’t give directions. That wasn’t just me, others couldn’t get Google Maps or Apple Maps to give directions, just stated the place and gave info about it. Weird. So we walked hither and yon and I had no idea where we were. I knew I was going to have to walk my on my own to figure it out because it’s all very walkable.
I’m in the Boudha area of Katmandu. It’s almost all Tibetan buddhist, different dress, different groups, but in general (according to those who know), this area is cleaner, kinder, and safer. It’s really wonderful. The people and surroundings are so interesting that I see people tripping on the cobble stones and rough places all the time because it’s hard to keep your eye on where you’re going. It’s not just me!
I had expected it to be kind of a rougher India. It definitely is reminiscent, but it’s its own place for sure. I can see why people want to come back. I was in sensory whelm – not overwhelmed, but there was so much that I decided I couldn’t really take any photos – or not many. I was walking tired after no sleep and so happy to be in the midst of friends getting a safe intro to this great place. So not what I’d thought I’d be doing my first days which was wondering mostly alone 🙂 So smells, textures, visuals, noises – so many inputs. Impossible to really describe.
We started off walking to the stupa. The Boudha Stupa or Boudhana Stupa is a major spiritual landmark seen as the embodiment of the enlightened mind of all the Buddhas. The stupa is said to have given birth to Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal. Its layout as a massive mandala makes it the largest spherical stupa in Nepal and one of the largest in the world. And we’ve all made a commitment to circumnavigate it (or do kora) 113 times. My first day, I did 8, my second 17, my third nothing. Today I wanted to start by 5:30, but started writing. So – I’m going now and will keep trying to get these past 3 days done by the end of the day.
The next thing we went to was Shechen Monastery related to Dilgo Khyentse RInpoche (1910-91), a revered teacher who continues to inspire. His photo is one that is on my shrine and many others. His complex includes the monastery, guest house, many shrine rooms. There’s a particular one that is open to visitors, with one room holding the kundun, where relics, sometimes whole bodies are kept. In Dilgo Khyentse’s case, there are relics of body, speech and mind to inspire all who enter. You can meditate in this room, but most continue to the next and that’s where we practiced for an hour. There’s a huge photo of him, as well as a statue of him and a photo of the Dalai Lama on the shrine. And it’s the most serene room. Even with some whispering prayers, clacking beads, making prostrations upon entering, it doesn’t matter.
We continued on to explore and see different areas and ended up at the Himalayan Cafe that’s on the circle around the stupa. It was great! Clearly invites westerners, but some locals as well. Again, we could eat and drink safely. We also went to the Rokpa Guest house. The Rinpoche there was wonderful, and his mission was to educate street children. They had a cafe and trained the kids to do all things related as well as getting a regular education. At this time, the cafe is run by the people who’ve graduated from there. As we walked up the four flights to the roof deck, the stairway was lined with photos of many of the kids with their names, from little to grown up. Their lives forever changed.
Roof top of Rokpa Guest House
Up on the stupa, see those eyes at the top? They’re on every side and incredible.
I got a text from one of my Nalandabodhi friends, Amy and ended up leaving the group and joining her and Darcey to do kora, going around 7 times talking the whole time. I didn’t realize you could do that! Thought it had to be in silence. We climbed up onto the stupa – I’d thought you could walk up there, albeit in your socks or bare feet, but nope. At least not enough to do kora. So just got some photos. There’s a Vajrayana Yogi group who’s doing a huge practice – all day long praying, reading text, incredible that the leader can do it sustainably for hours. They’re raising money for the flood victims of the last two huge floods.
Then went to dinner with those two and two others which was great – they’re the people organizing everything and it’s a huge undertaking. There are nearly 200 people for the Nalandabodhi functions and then nearly 400 for the Karmapa 16 group’s pilgrimage later next week. So a treat to be with them and catch up and chat since it might be my only sighting in a casual way.
The stupa from the restaurant rooftop.
When I got back to the hotel for the first time since I’d arrived, I thought it was about 11pm. Turned out to be 7:45!
